Xtracrylix paints come in 16ml plastic pots
model air in 17ml bottles (pre-thinned for
airbrush), so in effect you get more paint with the Xtracrylix. 1 pot should be plenty for a 1/48 Hawk but you will need to prime the model first.
This is my take on airbrushing but others may tell you differently...
I believe there is no substitute for actual practice with an
airbrush. I've been using airbrushes now for over 20 years and I still feel I learn something each time I pick it up. That said I believe the most important points are these:-
1 The mix of the paint is VERY important. A general 'rule-of-thumb' is that the paint should be the consistency of semi skimmed milk. You will need to get used to thinning paints and this project seems as good as any other. Although
model air is pre-thinned in the bottle I actually find it too thick and thin it down further anyway. I've read that, for best results, thin Xtracrylix between a 60:40 and a 50:50 ratio with Vallejo
airbrush cleaner (sounds weird but I have done similar with other paints). Other solvents (isopropyl alcohol etc) will work but I'm trying to keep the answers as simple as poss (probably failing in this task!)
My paint collection consists of
Model Air,
Model Color,
Tamiya, Life Color and a few odd tins of whatever. My personal preference is 'Life color' which you do need to thin but has excellent smooth pigmentation, thins beautifully and covers perfectly.
The point to this rambling is that whatever paint you buy you will need to practice with THAT brand of paint in YOUR
airbrush set up as there are so many factors at work - the air pressure you're using, temperature, humidity etc.
2 The pressure you use in the AB is also VERY important. Too low and the paint will spatter on the piece, too high and the paint will dry on the needle tip and block the AB. My
airbrush is generally set around 25psi but can go lower than 15psi for fine work and sometimes a little higher depending on usage. Generally speaking the finer the work the the lower the pressure.
The best advice I can give is to practice with the paint in your
airbrush and experiment a little. Try different pressures and paint consistencies starting within the ball park set out above. Practice on paper and try and get as thin a line as you can (this will teach you control). Try signing your name. Then try to get a really flat even finish by spraying side to side smoothly without 'pooling' the paint. Then try a transition from a thin line to a wider spray pattern in one movement. All this will get used to the
airbrush. Remember the distance at which you work will vary too - fine work will be close and coverage painting will be at a distance of around 10-12 inches. Once you've practiced a bit and your more confident with the equipment and materials try airbrushing a test piece (you could prime the inside of a wing and then
airbrush that).
Remember practice is the key word here there is no substitute.
The next advice is to learn to clean your
airbrush and KEEP IT CLEAN because if paint is left in there it will either impair it's performance or block it completely. You will not believe how automatic this procedure will become. I liken it to cleaning the rifle in 'Full Metal Jacket' - 'this is my
airbrush, there are many like it but this is MINE!'. You'll learn how to dismantle the thing blindfolded and put it back together again. That sounds comical but in a few years time you will realise how familiar those bits of shiny metal are and will actually know in advance when the AB will block and know the reason why.
An
airbrush is a great tool for the modeller and I hope you have some fun with yours. The flat even coverage of the Hawk shouldn't be too difficult, although gloss finishes tend to be a little more difficult to achieve that matt ones. The Red Arrows Hawk should be a good test for your first AB venture and I wish you all the best with it.
Remember to keep us up to date with the build!
All the best
Paul
Sorry for so many questions, but having not used an 
).
