Subaru 98 Monte Carlo - beginners recovery attempt.

[dougie]

Hi all, I have just gotten into model building having ruined a few kits when younger I hope to start building to a reasonable standard but I'm cutting my teeth on an old Subaru kit which I have messed up the decals on and built in a daft order many years ago when I had no real clue on the best way to approach model building.


I still haven't got a massive clue about a great many techniques etc... But I'm keen to start Learning. I have used this kit so far to practice deepening panel lines, priming, filling and sanding. I think I went ta bit too far with the panel lines on advice elsewhere and I have a couple of ragged edges around the vents to try and improve and some rough primer to smooth out as of tonight. Do far I've primed with tamiya rattle and now I have just opened my new airbrush and primed with Vallejo primer which took a bit of thinning after a poor trial run on a .2 needle and straight paint.


I will attach some poor mobile pics of the body as it is so far but I'm not for dragging the slr out until I need to show off the paint job better haha the rest of the car pics will be added when I get Back to working on them, I'm enjoying doing the body atm.


All tips and constructive criticism welcome. In particular, the best way to touch up the vents.

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[dougie]

I have also realised that uploading files results in really poor res images! I'll try to fix that later!

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Looking good so far, I built the African and Monte Carlo versions last year and so far yours looks on track to be a great build.


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/subaru-impreza-wrc-98-monte-carlo.26706/


Adrian

 

[dougie]

I looked at those builds the other day and was really impressed with both of them. have you any more really cars on the go?


There is no way my one can be as good because I'm missing a few bits and the interior and tyre decals are fairly destroyed but as long as I can improve what I have and learn from my mistakes I can make the rally Japan Subaru and my Lancia delta integral cars a lot better. I'm most excited about the fujimi golf mkv r32 I have as its the car I drive and it's my pride and joy. Although someone hit it recently and it's needing a bit of repair work too!

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Thanks, I don't have any more on the go as I tend to swap between all types of builds, though I do have Tom's Castrol Supra to build at some point, would like to see the Intra built, fancied buying one myself to build


Adrian

 

[dougie]

I love the Castrol Supra, reminds me of Sega rally back in the day! I have looked at a million kits and that was one but I'm not going to buy until I've finished a couple unless I see the odd bargain... the delta is a total classic as well, shoe box on wheels

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I love the Castrol Supra, reminds me of Sega rally back in the day! I have looked at a million kits and that was one but I'm not going to buy until I've finished a couple unless I see the odd bargain... the delta is a total classic as well, shoe box on wheels

My brother used to maintain Delta for a friend, always went on about how great they were. I may start the Supra as a side project inbetween builds


Adrian

 

[Tibbs]

Nice start, will be keeping an eye on this

 

[Marc Stock]

Welcome to our forum. It's very therapeutic this modeling merlarkey.


I'm also a Newby; just started up again since I last touched a model kit at 14.

 

[dougie]

Yes thats almost like me!


I got another few coats of primer on the main body , practising using the ab And then had a bash at using the new micro mesh. I noticed a couple of areas where I got a slight bubbling in the paint, I'm guessing this is where the paint was maybe too thick and had not cured correctly. Nothing major and will be sorted tonight. I'm hoping to get the spoiler and light housings cleaned and primed tonight and decide how best to attach and paint.


I ordered a food dehydrator to try and cure my paint a bit quicker and better as I only get limited slots to build and paint and I have to turn the heating up in the shed etc... Which takes time to warm up.


Has anyone tried using a dehydrator before?

 

[john i am]

Yes thats almost like me!
I got another few coats of primer on the main body , practising using the ab And then had a bash at using the new micro mesh. I noticed a couple of areas where I got a slight bubbling in the paint, I'm guessing this is where the paint was maybe too thick and had not cured correctly. Nothing major and will be sorted tonight. I'm hoping to get the spoiler and light housings cleaned and primed tonight and decide how best to attach and paint.


I ordered a food dehydrator to try and cure my paint a bit quicker and better as I only get limited slots to build and paint and I have to turn the heating up in the shed etc... Which takes time to warm up.


Has anyone tried using a dehydrator before?

I use an hair dryer which works great with vallejo paints and primer really speeds the curing process hi and welcome look forward to your progress cheers John

 

[dougie]

Cool, might give it a wee blast tonight to help it along.


I've also ordered some sabelt 6 point seatbelts to replace the ruined decals but I think relevant replacement decals and photo etched parts are not available anywhere now

 

[dougie]

Hi guys, I though I would 'bare all' so to speak and show you what I recovered from the box when I decided to make a go of modelling properly! I have made a media gallery and here are some pics I took today. I didn't realise there was only a MB size limit not a dimensional limit so I have cropped them a bit small (800 px wide) but the next ones will be bigger.


What you will see and I need advice with is mainly the seats. When I used a video years ago for advice on decals I over soaked them, like until they nearly came off in the water, I also didn't know to apply them on a gloss surface and I also had no clue really about priming parts properly or at all in this case. The Decals are peeling off the seats which is great as they are a mess and I want them off but the seats are stuck down so I can't remove them for painting - I think I used lots of Revell cement. If I clean the decals off, painting them will be a bit of a nightmare but it maybe is all I can do to recover them? it will be far too hard surely to apply paint, gloss and new carbon decals. maybe just a coat of very dark satin grey is my thinking (almost but not quite black)


The interior should have been primed and painted so it has that horrible blue plastic look but I think on this occasion it may be ok to go with it, again suggestions are welcome - It doesnt have to be anything like perfect, I just want to learn some skills and get this model out of the workshop! the Body will hopefully look good enough to keep me happy.


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[Laurie]

All looks good to me Dougie. Look forward to further events.


Laurie

 

[dougie]

I have masked the rear lights and number plate now - 20 mins I had to spare tonight. Also there are a couple of photos of me at the Rally experience the missus got me for my christmas last year. I had been working in India and Egypt for nearly 6 months this year (during the hottest period in India in a long time) coming home to dreich weather was excellent and perfect for the Rally experience as it was on tarmac. Great fun!


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[dougie]

Tonight I filed back some paint and added the lower aux lights to allow me to fill and blend in the lines. Not100% accurate as there should be lines but I won't be removing them for the cover plates. I also primed a couple more parts and I feel my airbrushing is beginning to come on a little. I can clean the brush quickly and can paint a bit better.


Hopefully in the next week I can start to make this model look like it's progressing


Also tried out my dehydrator and it seems to be excellent. Milliput goes off a bit quicker and the paint starts to dry so much quicker. Will see how it degasses in time.


Also more terrible phone pictures at the moment. Sorry.


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[flyjoe180]

First time I've seen a dehydrator used for this, nice one.

 

[dougie]

Seen That a lot of people on other forms are using them when I did a search on the mental curing time of Tamiya rattle cans and using their clear lacquer on top. If you don't put the lacquer on when the main paint is pretty much wet you have to wait nearly a month or you get micro cracking due to different contraction rates and degassing issues. Using one of These it takes like a couple of days if that. £30 on flea bay. Worth a punt And it works the same on other types of paint, seems like a few hours in here and it's like 24 normal hours.


I'm Still experimenting so nobody take this as gospel haha

 

[Plastickitbasher]

Looking good so far

 

[Marc Stock]

What a good idea. Mine was still tacky feeling after 2 weeks.