Superglue question

[Sprue42]

Hi Folks,

Coming back to the hobby after many decades away has been a real eye opener. Searching for stuff and discovering the myriad of options is all part of the fun. However, the superglue has got me stumped. Last time I used super glue in model making it was just that, superglue. it was made by one company (that I knew of) and came in tubes that always dried out... and it was really expensive! All that has changed now and I need a few pointers as to where to start.

What superglues, activators, cleaners etc do you use? Is there a 'go-to' make for all this stuff or is it a case of just trying a few until I find one I like? I like the idea of using black superglue so the excess can be seen easily and cleaned off using a remover/cleaner, but I have no idea which makes to use and if the remover/cleaner will attack the plastic.

Thanks in advance, any pointers would be appreciated.
Ralph.

 

[BarryW]

Personally I like the Ammo superglue, having tired a lot of different brands.

There is a slow dry and instant dry, both have uses while the black superglue is good for small gap filling.

There is one other of note, that’s the DSPAE non-fogging superglue. This one is good for transparencies.

 

[Jim R]

The thicker, slower drying CA (still quick - maybe 20 secs) is useful for joining parts which need a bit of wriggle time. You can put a bit of glue on a part and then position it.
The thin CA dries much quicker, almost instantly. It is thin enough to wick into gaps. Hold parts together and wick the thin CA along the join.
I have not tried the black CA or the non fogging type recommend by Barry. Normal CA may fog transparent parts.

 

[Ian M]

I second the Ammo, but I have found some on a Polish Web site that I am 99.9% sure is the same. EXACTLY the same bottles and works just as well. Just under half the price

 

[Tim Marlow]

Personally I use loctite, both gel and thin types. I find they are more reliable than some others. Never bothered with accelerators though. Cyanoacr glues tend to set in the absence of air and the presence of moisture, so I just “huff” on the joint and the moisture in my breath sets it off nicely.

 

[Andy T]

I've tried all kinds of fancy ones but I got some tubes of Bostik cheap from Aldi and it's by far my favourite.

Yes there are times when I need a thicker or slower glue, but for generally sticking stuff together it does the job fine.

For accelerator I buy the (cheap) kits from screwfix with a thick CA and activator spray. I decant the spray into an old tamiya extra thin bottle so I can use its brush for spot application.

 

[Steven000]

I'm using cheap superglue from a local action-store, works great for what I'm using it for. For filling larger gaps I add thin powder (baking soda or just plastic sanding-dust)

 

[minitnkr]

Less is more, think ahead, take your time setting up, have tried many, like Gorilla glue as it is a bit slower/thicker & has a cool applicator.

 

[therapy]

I've tried a couple of the modelling branded types, and while I found they worked well, with my build rate I threw most of it away as it went hard..... For the last few years I've been using this:



One comes with every set of Oxford Hot Grips and its really not what you want for gluing handlebar grips on. It works quite satisfactorily for modelling purposes in my experience however. I fit quite a lot of these grips so I have built up a bit of a stash. I should probably stop collecting them for a while, but if/when I eventually retire I'm sure they will come in very handy....




Nick

 

[Jakko]

I just buy superglue in a hardware store, Bison if I have to buy it where I live, but Pattex/Loctite (same actual glue) if I have time to go into town to get it. I always buy fairly small tubes — any more than 3 g and I waste far more of a tube/bottle than I use from it.

Talking of wasting glue, I find these:

… work well to prevent that. I clean the nozzle with a rag every time before I put the cap on, and because the whole thing stands upright, glue is less likely to clog up the nozzle anyway. (Inside is just a 3 g tube of glue, BTW.)

 

[Mini Me]

Been using the loctite 454 formula for years Jakko.....lasts a long time and no waste. Oh, it sets up quick so not much time to position parts.

 

[Gern]

Only thing I've ever managed to stick together with superglue are my fingers! None of the half dozen types I've tried have ever worked on anything else.

 

[Ian M]

I found that around the time they started to put warning labels "do not drink" on battery acid, hardware stores only had tiny little pippette things of "super glue".
I also found that most of the "cheap" brands are worthless after a week. I have three bottles from Ammo, a quick set, a slow and a black on the bench for over a year and they are all fine.

 

[rtfoe]

I use any super glue that is cheap and for quick fixes when plastics are not involved. In the past I tend to get mini tubes from Daiso and then UHU made these also that usually last for most 2 days before they thicken and harden. Good for a few squirts and throw away.
Now I have found an applicator from Man Wah which fits any CA nozzle and larger bottles of CA and the one shown here has been sitting on my table close to 2 months and the CA is still flowing like water. No need to close up and if the tip dries I just snip an mm off and it's good to go. This applicator is already quite short as I have clipped about an inch since using it. Comes in a bag of 12 and costs next to nothing. I haven't bought much CA since.


Cheers,
Wabble

 

[David Lovell]

Its not so much a can of worms as I'm sure all the recommendations here are sound but in the end it comes down to personal choice ,you might well go through two or three of these before you find the one that works for you ,super glue /CA call it what you want its still super glue/CA at the end of the day but and there's a load of butt's in this hobby your find one that your totally confident with despite the fact that its another man's poison.
I dont usualy like bandying brands about but I've used Deluxe Rocket max for a few years now the blue labled one gives you 10-20 secs wriggle time so panic doesn't set in youd be surprised how long 20secs is.

You only ever use very small amounts each time these I put on a plastic lid (think this ones from a Bisto carton/tube)it will stay workable there for your session at the bench once no room left turn over and repeat and if you haven't got a replacement give it a good flexing and flick off bits with a finger nail.
As Jakko says keep the nozel clean and store upright.
Well good hunting Ralph at the end of the day confidence in what your using not the brand is the key. Oh yes and for the minute please don't ask about storing the stuff that's asking for trouble mythical ain't the word for it. Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

I just buy superglue in a hardware store, Bison if I have to buy it where I live, but Pattex/Loctite (same actual glue) if I have time to go into town to get it. I always buy fairly small tubes — any more than 3 g and I waste far more of a tube/bottle than I use from it.

Talking of wasting glue, I find these:

… work well to prevent that. I clean the nozzle with a rag every time before I put the cap on, and because the whole thing stands upright, glue is less likely to clog up the nozzle anyway. (Inside is just a 3 g tube of glue, BTW.)

That’s my go to type. Once it doesn’t dispense glue, take the tube out of the holder and you’ll find there is about 1g remaining that can still be used.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Its not so much a can of worms as I'm sure all the recommendations here are sound but in the end it comes down to personal choice ,you might well go through two or three of these before you find the one that works for you ,super glue /CA call it what you want its still super glue/CA at the end of the day but and there's a load of butt's in this hobby your find one that your totally confident with despite the fact that its another man's poison.
I dont usualy like bandying brands about but I've used Deluxe Rocket max for a few years now the blue labled one gives you 10-20 secs wriggle time so panic doesn't set in youd be surprised how long 20secs is.
View attachment 499860
You only ever use very small amounts each time these I put on a plastic lid (think this ones from a Bisto carton/tube)it will stay workable there for your session at the bench once no room left turn over and repeat and if you haven't got a replacement give it a good flexing and flick off bits with a finger nail.
As Jakko says keep the nozel clean and store upright.
Well good hunting Ralph at the end of the day confidence in what your using not the brand is the key. Oh yes and for the minute please don't ask about storing the stuff that's asking for trouble mythical ain't the word for it. Dave

That’s a good tip Dave. If you stick a scrap of double sided tape on something (I use a scrap of 2x1 wood) it will do the same job. All you do then is peel the tape off and replace it once used. Stays workable for ages because there is no moisture incorporated into the surface.

 

[rtfoe]

Its not so much a can of worms as I'm sure all the recommendations here are sound but in the end it comes down to personal choice ,you might well go through two or three of these before you find the one that works for you ,super glue /CA call it what you want its still super glue/CA at the end of the day but and there's a load of butt's in this hobby your find one that your totally confident with despite the fact that its another man's poison.
I dont usualy like bandying brands about but I've used Deluxe Rocket max for a few years now the blue labled one gives you 10-20 secs wriggle time so panic doesn't set in youd be surprised how long 20secs is.
View attachment 499860
You only ever use very small amounts each time these I put on a plastic lid (think this ones from a Bisto carton/tube)it will stay workable there for your session at the bench once no room left turn over and repeat and if you haven't got a replacement give it a good flexing and flick off bits with a finger nail.
As Jakko says keep the nozel clean and store upright.
Well good hunting Ralph at the end of the day confidence in what your using not the brand is the key. Oh yes and for the minute please don't ask about storing the stuff that's asking for trouble mythical ain't the word for it. Dave

I use a Pringles cap...works the same too.

Cheers,
Wabble

 

[Scratchbuilder]

I buy the Delux materials c/a, but I buy a bottle of the 5 sec and the 10 sec, I then mix both together which gives me a workable material. This is just my preference for sticking etch brass or aluminium to the model.
I have also found that the VMS products work but at a slower rate.
I do not use the 'blaster' as I find the clean up a waste of time.
Application - It is either a dress pin that has had the head cut off (flat bit) and c/a'd into the end of half a wood peg or old paintbrush handle. For applying along say a corner joint I use a #10a scalpel blade, dipped into the c/a and then run along the joint.
I do not pour c/a direct from the bottle unless I need gallons of the stuff in one place, I use an old rattle can paint cup that has had the middle heated over a candle to soften the plastic and then a small dip is pushed into it, then I put the c/a into that and prevent a lot of waste. And for cleaning up or dabbing away any excess I use the ever faithful cheap tiolet roll....

Tools of the trade????
Hope this helps.

 

[Andy T]

I'm another that dispenses a bit onto a cap. I save the green tops from milk cartons. We get through so much milk I'm considering buying our own cow!