USS Blueback Sub Build

M

magpie

Guest
Up-dated pic. This is my sub!



I'm currently doing a US sub which will have RCABS static dive and subtech running gear. Dave Welch tubes and end caps etc. The pic is of the first one off the press by Steve Neill CA.

Here's a link to the page on my site:

http://magpieyachts.com/building14.html

Jason
 
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G

GEEDUBBYA

Guest
Nice looking sub Jason.

have a good evening,

Greg aka GW
 
M

magpie

Guest
Hi Greg.

That's Steve's first BB. I'm building mine now . (Just to avoid confusion)

Regards

Jason
 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
Mags, if this build thread is going to be anything like the U-Boat story I for one will be looking forward to it.
 
M

magpie

Guest
Thanks Bunk.

That u-boat build was the best thing I ever did. Really enjoyed it and it hooked me on subs.

I'm updateing my site page as I go and I'll post a thread in 1 go once it's done on here. Save doubling up every night etc. Give me more build time etc.

I know it's slack but I'm a bit slack too!

Still love this site BTW

Jason
 
M

magpie

Guest
I'm not doing a full thread on it here as I said above, but I'll post an occasional pic along the way.

Jason

 
M

magpie

Guest
Getting there!

Thanks Mankster!!

I’m getting there. Just waiting on my Dave Welch WTC kit to arrive to finish her off.:peace:



 
M

Mankster

Guest
Hi Jason,

How did you do that scum line? With an airbrush and masking tape obviously, but did you just mask of the top end and do the rest freehand? What technique did you use. Just one colour? One continous movement or lots of sharp bursts? How far away did you hold the brush aand did you spary the entire lower hull with a dusting or did you stop just below the scum line?

Cheers!
 
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M

magpie

Guest
Hi Jason,How did you do that scum line? With an airbrush and masking tape obviously, but did you just mask of the top end and do the rest freehand? What technique did you use. Just one colour? One continous movement or lots of sharp bursts? How far away did you hold the brush aand did you spary the entire lower hull with a dusting or did you stop just below the scum line?

Cheers!
Yes I masked it using the lazer light on a block and mixed up a couple of colours. First a brown a bit darker than the bottom paint and second a green to simulate mould/weed. I airbrushed (low pressure-just enought to work the spray) in a constant flow from about 45 deg from above and about 6" away aiming at the tape to allow the overspray to fan out on the hull. I wipe the dribbles off the tabe with rag before they reach the hull. I also always do a coat of clear before any detail work incase I want to 'click REDO' IE rub it back off and start again. This saves damaging the base coat.The green is just on odd bits as it would be for real. Low pressure areas etc. I use car acrylic laquer for the above and A L clear sprayed from about a metre to land slightly sandy.

Thanks for your interest BTW!!

Jason
 
M

magpie

Guest
She’s all done externally now. Once the WTC bits get here, I’ll make her a goer.

Note: The sail/tower isn't attached yet. It looks crooked. Will be straight!



 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
Nice job Magpie. That waterline treatment is very interesting and something I have been thinking about for my steam coaster.

I was thinking along the lines of floating paint on the surface of water and putting the hull into it but i think there will be a fair amount of experimentation first!!! Is is a very reall effect though and one that I haven't seen attempted before. It does look the part on the sub.

I would like to try to recreate a number of differrent lines overlapping at differrent draughts and trims but that might be getting a bit ambitious!!!
 
M

magpie

Guest
I started on my WTC today. I’m using a Subtech motor-belt gear setup and I fitted that today and I made a bracket for the 2 servos from square plastic tube and flat ABS sheet. It also supports the belt drive. The servos run the rudder and dive planes. The speedie also goes in the back section and the APC. The air pump goes in the middle one and the battery (Li-poly) 7.4 2500mah and receiver and regulater go in the front one. The 2 front parts are adjoined for air pressure storage and the aft one is separate to avoid positive pressure on the Subtech seals from the inside when the bladder is empty.





 
M

magpie

Guest
I got a bit more done on her.

I bench tested the driveline and it's all cool. I'm working on the ballast pump now.

Jason



 
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M

magpie

Guest
I test assembled the WTC today after drilling and bonding the caps last night. It’s a bit different to the standard kit layout in that I’m using a Subtech switch and clippard valve. I mounted the receiver in the central tube instead of the rear one. The Li-poly battery will be mounted flat in the front tube as it's a bit bigger than Dave's in length and won't fit up against the front cap. I put the air hose outlet in the front instead of having it go through the back cap and back out again at the top. This way I only need to seal one exit point and it gives me a bit more room. My apc is stickyback taped to a servo and the SSS switch for the pump is on the back of the receiver which fits nicely in the middle tube where I can easily get to it and see what crystal it has through the lexan. I'm putting the power switch bolts through the upper back of the front cap as I'd need to remove the whole WTC to access them if they were on the front or put a hatch in the fore deck etc. There's room for them there so it's cool.





This is a prop guard I made that clips on and off. It’s a precaution for when I’m learning to drive her and for my Scope guys who may back her into the bricks!

 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
I like the guard, the prop does look very exposed.

When you look at the tapering off at the back end though what a lovely uninterupted flow through the prop you've got there.
 
M

magpie

Guest
Yes I've been reading up on them a lot and they are very quiet with regard to cavitation for listening hydrophoned etc. That's why all the modern ones before turbo props (US atleast) have single fully aft props. If it's close to the hull, the blades go through "dead water" low pressure areas and the pressure change causes micro cavitation which is noisy and even erodes the prop blades apparently! Dave M makes nice white metal props to scale, but they are a bit fragile so the guard will be on it most of the time. Once removed there's only the top hole visible and it's right where the real one has a stern light so I can stick a removable one in the hole if I get all rivet counter happy later on or the club members are too judgemental as they can be at times.:judge:

PS Thanks for the much appreciated feedback mate!
 
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B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
Cavitation is a very deep and involved topic and has been the subject of many an investigation and study over the years. It is also a very interesting thing to look into and one that affects the life of a marine engineer in many ways.

The basic concept is this, if you take a liquid and suddenly reduce the pressure it is under dissolved gasses will come out of the solution and form gasses. Under normal circumstances this would migrate towards the surface and escape but when it is done very quickly the bubbles of gas formed, being created by a sudden reduction in pressure, collapse again as they move away from the low pressure area.

Propellers, be they aircraft or marine, are only a moving aircraft wing in so far as they are an aerofoil shape moving through a fluid and creating lift. In a marine propeller you have the high pressure face and the low pressure face just as you do with a wing. The trouble with a marine propeller is it is very much a compromise. The ideal aerofoil shape only exists for a certain speed so the distance from the shaft coupled to the varying propeller speeds all combine to ensure that the propeller does not get to its peak efficiency. In reality you have varying prop speeds and loading conditions so a propeller can only be designed to suit the vessels characteristics under the majority of its operating conditions.

It is when you get away from these ideals that cavitation becomes more of an issue. People tend to think that cavitation exists only when the slip has become 100% and thrust ceases, which will happen when the prop it turning too fast. Cavitation though happens at all revs and is evidenced simply by the formation of gas bubbles constantly forming and collapsing in the propeller wash. What these bubbles do as they are collapsing is to impinge on the surface of the propeller blades and actually cause erosion. To see a propeller that has cavitated a lot is quite an eye opener. It looks like corrosion/erosion at first but it is more of a pitting effect and can completely wear a propeller away.

I have been on a ship where we had a slight bend in the leading edge of one of the propeller blades, which caused cavitation as this bend sliced through the water. The low pressure area following the bend could be heard inside the ship every time that blade passed the hull and it sounded just like someone was banging on the hull with a hammer on the outside. Hence the significance of the most efficient possible flow through a submarines prop and why you find shrouded props and very clean efficient hull forms at the back ends of subs.

This effect is not only limited to propellers though, it can occur in any environment. One of the most common is inside centrifugal pumps where I have seen cavitation erosion wear an impeller away from a 100kg lump of brass until it looked like a piece of lace!

By the way did you realize that when you crack your finger joints and make them ‘pop’ the noise is actually cavitation inside the joint. The ‘pop’ is the gas bubble collapsing within the joint as you cause a sudden reduction in pressure by opening the joint. The more often you do this the more damage you do to the joint and cavitation erosion will eventually cause arthritis.
 
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