Vallejo Surface Primer

[Ray Scheller]

I just got a bottle of Vallejo surface primer and I don't know much about using it. I need some help from someone who's used this stuff before. Are you thinning it? If so I assume you use Vallejo thinner. What pressure do you get the best results? I'd appreciate your input. Thanks.

Ray

 

[BarryW]

Ray. You can spray unthinned at around 20-25psi. Some people do thin it a little but it's not essential.

Wipe the model with ipa first to make there is no grease.

Spray a very light mist coat followed and build up your coats.

Do not mask over it for at least 24 hours or ideally 48 hours. If you are going to sand it to correct flaws leave it 48 hours because then it's cured enough to feather.

It is excellent stuff and cures to a tight hard smooth finish.

 

[rickoshea52]

I have trouble spraying it through a .35mm needle, to date I've thinned with mixed results but usually end up with a blockage. The next time I use it I'll spray with a .5mm needle on an old airbrush.

 

[dave]

I cannot add to Barry's post. I spray unthinned at abou 25psi with a 0.35mm needle with no trouble at all.

 

[Laurie]

Similar to Barry Ray.

I normally wet and dry just to give better adherence. I use a .4 needle/nozzle at about 18PSI. Mist coat 30% thinned Vallejo thinner which has "stickability agents in it.

Second coat about 20% thinned.

Found there is a propensity, if I do not wet and dry, for the paint film to strip with a lot of masking. Just broke my own rule and actually did that &%*$".

Agree entirely with Barry on the 48 hours. As with all acrylics they are plastic films. If you try sanding before it is well cured bits of the plastic coating will tear off leaving crater type edges on the tear line virtually impossible to hide.

If using Mr Surfacer 500 best to do all the filling before priming as the Mr Surfacer softens the acrylic.

Laurie

 

[Ray Scheller]

Great info guys. I'm off to give it a try. I'm a little nervous because my airbrush has a .3 nozzle on it and most are using a .35 and above. I guess I'll see what happens. May the priming spirits be with me.

Ray

 

[monica]

real only a newbie to AB myself,and have agree totally with Barry,Laurie,great advice,

and Agree entirely with Barry on the 48 hours,drying time,

as i have had a few little mishap with scratching with my nail, :rolleyes:

 

[Laurie]

Great info guys. I'm off to give it a try. I'm a little nervous because my airbrush has a .3 nozzle on it and most are using a .35 and above. I guess I'll see what happens. May the priming spirits be with me.Ray

i would make sure you thin. Try 35% Ray. Matter of experiment with a 0.3 needle nozzle.

 

[Ray Scheller]

Laurie,

I was thinking the same thing but had no clue where to start. Now I do. I'm in a conundrum my good airbrush has the 0.3 nozzle and my average brush has a .2 but I can change the nozzle in it to a 0.3, do you think it's worth the time and effort or should I just shoot it with the good gun?

Ray

 

[Laurie]

Laurie,I was thinking the same thing but had no clue where to start. Now I do. I'm in a conundrum my good airbrush has the 0.3 nozzle and my average brush has a .2 but I can change the nozzle in it to a 0.3, do you think it's worth the time and effort or should I just shoot it with the good gun?

Ray

I would use your best brush Ray. Provided you use Vallejo Air Brush Cleaner to give it a good clean out you should be OK.

Thinking, some times do, if you are still having blockages I would try upping the PSI 25 say then 30. All a matter of experimenting before you hit the real target.

Laurie

 

[Ray Scheller]

Wise wisdom my friend.

Ray

 

[dubster72]

This is a decent video Ray, I don't use Vallejo myself, but these chaps make it seem easy !

http://www.scalewarmachines.com/?q=allcontent/vallejo-surface-primers

 

[Laurie]

Not viewed it yet but one thing is clear from the title page. Both Barry and I have said if you are going to sand Vallejo primer then leave at least 48 hours. They talk of 24 hours and as they say sanding will strip the primer.

After 48 hours I happily wet and dry WET and have not had any problems. One thing not to do is apply anything other than thin coats. Thick coats will take a proportionately longer time to dry than 48 hours.

Had an experiment yesterday. If you strip by accident a bit of primer it will have crater edges near impossible with filler to disguise. Tried carefully with success with a brush and Vallejo Airbrush cleaner flattening the edges. Also using a sponge thinghy gives results.If not cured well try Vallejo Thinners. Make sure the affected area is cured before working on it.

Laurie

 

[dubster72]

You should save your money & buy this stuff! 300ml from the Poundshop & it dries back really tight, even if you're heavy-handed and put it on too thick.

The best thing is that it can be handled in less than an hour without fear of it coming off (unlike Vallejo) & after 3-4 hours can be sanded.

After 24 hours, a fingernail won't make a mark on it!

View attachment 99394

 

[Laurie]

I will get some Patrick and test it against Vallejo primer.

Laurie

 

[Waffen Bucks]

I used Vallejo primer on my current build, a Mk VIIC/41 U-boat.

I thinned it, washed model, left that to air dry for a few days and then sprayed the primer on.

Left it for 2 days to cure, primer came straight off when sanding and even when in contact with my cutting mat.

Stripped and primed it again...left it to cure for a week, that seemed to do the job for the large area of the hulls. However, at the moment I am dealing with the smaller parts now, and some of the primer is peeling off and its been on there 4-5 weeks.

I did not use IPA.

 

[Laurie]

However, at the moment I am dealing with the smaller parts now, and some of the primer is peeling off and its been on there 4-5 weeks.

Just finished all these pieces Andrew which were initially each coated with Vallejo Primer. A great majority are small pieces and/ or with small detail attached.

View attachment 99405


Small pieces are extremely difficult to prepare as being mostly impossible to sand. If they are not prepared they will be shiny providing the worst surface for acrylic primer to adhere to. No amount of curing will solve that.

I use this.

View attachment 99406


It is bird grit. Bizarre it may seem but it works. Learnt from Colin previous member of SMF. Place your bits of plastic in the container of bird grit. Obviously put on the top and gently for a minute or two jog the container back and forward turning upside down continually as the plastic comes to the top of the grit. Even very small pieces will not be harmed but they will be sufficiently scuffed to form a good surface for the acrylic primer to adhere to.

Wash with water and a small amount of washing up liquid and thoroughly rinses as they will be covered with bird grit dust. After priming try to leave 48 hours to cure. Used this time and again. The only problem I have had is in forgetting to birdgrit a piece and i have had problems.

All the pieces above were airbrushed with Vallejo Primer. I would not use hand brushing as then the paint film will be too thick both obliterating detail and very difficult to cure.

Laurie

 

[Waffen Bucks]

Ok...so it just gives the smaller parts a bit of texture for the paint to grab onto. Excellent info Laurie

 

[BarryW]

That is a good trick from Laurie and presumably it also 'scores away' any grease too.

Andrew - I can only assume there must have been release agent or finger grease on the parts for that to happen. I have used Vallejo on 25 builds so far, mostly 1/32 scale, with few problems and on the rare occasions when I have had them it was my own fault for not cleaning the parts enough or being impatient.

Patrick - I have heard of others using that kind of primer as well as you and commenting favourably on it. I have not tried it myself, but I have tried rattle cans and, overall, I am not happy with the controlability of the cans much prefering to airbrush. Hence Vallejo.

 

[Laurie]

This is a decent video Ray, I don't use Vallejo myself, but these chaps make it seem easy !http://www.scalewarmachines.com/?q=allcontent/vallejo-surface-primers

Great site Patrick thanks for the info on it. Good info on a lot of products and techniques. Had a look at the video which I thought was very well pro. presented with good info.

Just disagree with cure time. Not to be confused with a piece being dry to handle and to be able to apply further coats as opposed to being cured sufficiently to wet and dry wet.

Perhaps a .3 needle is pushing your luck. Hand dryer dries the surfacer but does not enhance curing one little bit and I am suspicious that this may undo the bond plastic to paint.

Also recommend the DVD called AFV acrylic techniques by Mig Jimenz . The first section in which he demonstrates primers although not the preparation of the plastic surface. He shows how to apply the primer. He also demonstrates how to use the different colour primers and mixing of the colours to pre-shade with the primer itself.

Laurie