Vallejo Surface Primer

[dubster72]

Patrick - I have heard of others using that kind of primer as well as you and commenting favourably on it. I have not tried it myself, but I have tried rattle cans and, overall, I am not happy with the controlability of the cans much prefering to airbrush. Hence Vallejo.

Like you Barry, I prefer using the airbrush, but with this stuff control doesn't seem to matter. On a 1/72 Spitfire I went way over the top & sprayed far too much. 2 hours later:

View attachment 99425


It shrunk down to a fine smooth covering! And no cleaning of the AB!

 

[Waffen Bucks]

That is a good trick from Laurie and presumably it also 'scores away' any grease too.Andrew - I can only assume there must have been release agent or finger grease on the parts for that to happen. I have used Vallejo on 25 builds so far, mostly 1/32 scale, with few problems and on the rare occasions when I have had them it was my own fault for not cleaning the parts enough or being impatient.

Patrick - I have heard of others using that kind of primer as well as you and commenting favourably on it. I have not tried it myself, but I have tried rattle cans and, overall, I am not happy with the controlability of the cans much prefering to airbrush. Hence Vallejo.

There may have been grease still on the parts, but I had washed them in warm slightly soapy water, left all parts to air dry for 2 days and they were then primed. The small parts/sprues were left to cure for a good 4-5 weeks while I was dealing with the 2 hull halves etc. Maybe I thinned it a bit too much but it was a nice milky consistency.

Will give it another go on my next build

 

[dubster72]

As for the video Laurie, I'd agree with your curing time, although I don't know when the video was made or the age ofthe primer / paints tthey're using.

From what I've seen & read, the durability of Vallejo has gone down in recent times - especially as that was previously one of its biggest selling points. Maybe Mig took the original formula when he left?

 

[Laurie]

As for the video Laurie, I'd agree with your curing time, although I don't know when the video was made or the age ofthe primer / paints tthey're using.From what I've seen & read, the durability of Vallejo has gone down in recent times - especially as that was previously one of its biggest selling points. Maybe Mig took the original formula when he left?

Having used Vallejo Patrick, for I suppose for near on 6 years, I have not noticed any change except for the better that the more I use it the more I learn about how far you can go without abusing it. The thinners now used are superior to those which I started with as are the new varnishes.One thing you cannot do is to ensure preparation work is thorough as if it is not then which ever paint you use is not going to be used to its advantage.

Think like all products you have to respect the limits that it sets are worked within. Had a delve with Lifcolor and that has different, subtle, differences. As Mig points out he can do anything with acrylics that can be done with enamel. But as he also points out the techniques to do that are different with advantages and disadvantages in both directions.

Laurie

 

[BarryW]

There may have been grease still on the parts, but I had washed them in warm slightly soapy water, left all parts to air dry for 2 days and they were then primed. The small parts/sprues were left to cure for a good 4-5 weeks while I was dealing with the 2 hull halves etc. Maybe I thinned it a bit too much but it was a nice milky consistency.Will give it another go on my next build

What did you thin with?

Thinning with anything other than the right thinner reduces its durability.

Also it does not need thinning to spray through an airbrush. Excessive thinning even with the right stuff could have an adverse effect.

When applying it is best to do that very light mist coat first and make sure it is built up in thin coats.

 

[Waffen Bucks]

What did you thin with?Thinning with anything other than the right thinner reduces its durability.

Also it does not need thinning to spray through an airbrush. Excessive thinning even with the right stuff could have an adverse effect.

When applying it is best to do that very light mist coat first and make sure it is built up in thin coats.

I used Universal brand thinners.

I'd say a ratio of 20/80.

 

[Laurie]

I used Universal brand thinners.

Andrew if it is the Universal Brand I looked at on Ebay it is a solvent based thinners.

Vallejo is water based. If all this is so that is your problem. As it is still uncured IPA will probably strip it off so that you can make a fresh start.

Although Vallejo is water based and you can use water I would only use Vallejo Thinners. Their thinners has the same base ingredients as the paint. Thinning the paint with the Vallejo thinners will retain the paints integrate. With water thinning you will lose that integrate. Flattening out of the paint, adhesion to the plastic and lubrication through the airbrush will all be degraded.

Laurie

 

[Waffen Bucks]

Many many thanks Laurie

 

[BarryW]

Laurie is spot on that might be the explanation Andrew.

Try spraying unthinned and laying it down in very thin layers drying down each layer with air each time before the next one then leave it to cure.

 

[Stevekir]

Like you Barry, I prefer using the airbrush, but with this stuff control doesn't seem to matter. On a 1/72 Spitfire I went way over the top & sprayed far too much. 2 hours later:View attachment 101034

It shrunk down to a fine smooth covering! And no cleaning of the AB!

That's interesting. Not using the airbrush where appropriate saves a lot of time. Will try that