Washing the kit before painting!

Waspie

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I read on here yesterday that washing the releasing agent from kits before assembly was a useful process.
Do many folk actually wash their models or do they go straight to the priming! (If they prime).
It ain't half got technical since I last delved into the land of modelling!!!!
Just trying to get the processes sorted out in my head before I commence project number 1!!
Wash
Assembly or partial assembly depending on construction!
Prime
Paint
 
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Ian M

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Depends on the kit. I think I have washed every tenth kit I've built. But they where obviously oily.
Some of the others could have benefited from a warm bath but nothing serious.
Some paint everything they can then build, Some Build the subassemblies and paint them as they go... I build as much as I can and still paint. We all do it differently but basically the same. Some prime some dont. its a preference. if you have plastic, Brass PE, Aluminium guns barrels, Resin wheels and the such a primer will bring things together as a more even surface, colour wise, to paint.
 

BarryW

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Release agent is not an issue any more as it is not commonly used. If you get an old kit then it may have release agent but not newer tooled kits.

Out of around 100 kits I have only pre washed one, a Trumpeter 1/24 Hawker Hurricane that was obviously greasy when I opened the box.

It is more important to wipe the plastic with a degreaser or ipa just before painting to remove finger grease and sanding rubble.

Build your model in sub-assemblies that are determined by painting needs. Most obviously, you cannot paint a cockpit interior after joining the fuselage halves.

Primer is important for the following reasons:
1/ and most important, to identify build flaws so you can address them before laying down colour. Issues like fuselage seams that need more filling and sanding, glue marks etc. a good primer really emphasises such issues.
2/ to provide a unified ‘canvas’ in which to paint. You may have different ‘media’, such as plastic, brass, lead wire, resin as well as different colour filler. On the same point, for more advanced painting, primer is good for pre shading and/or what I usually do ‘black base’ for colour modulation.
3/ for adhesion, IF you use water based acrylics as these have very poor adhesion qualities. This is not an issue if you use lacquer acrylics or enamels.
 

Jim R

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It is more important to wipe the plastic with a degreaser or ipa just before painting to remove finger grease and sanding rubble.
I use lighter fluid as a degreaser before painting. It evaporates very quickly and doesn't seem to affect any plastics, resin or glue. I just wipe the model over with a brush dipped in the fluid.
I think Barry is right in that dust and finger marks are more of an issue than any release agent.
Ignore the above if you smoke when modelling :rolling: :smiling:
 

eddiesolo

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Older kits can benefit from a soapy clean to get rod of any grease or release agent. Newer kits seems to be lovely and clean, no agent or more modern substance used. I used to wash kits prior to priming, just to be on the safe side.
 

JR

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Agree its more about cleaning the model before you paint, being handled its bound to pick up grease from your hands.
 

Andy T

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When I first started I was washing everything before assembly because I thought it was the done thing but have since learned otherwise. Since I do mostly recent kits it's never been a problem but as said I here it can be needed on some older ones.

Washing, or at least a thorough clean before painting is definitely still in my routine though. Any stray bits of sanding gunk, finger prints, that kind of thing is much better out of the way.
 

Dave Ward

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I give a model a wipe down with IPA before I paint these days, but I have models in the stash that need careful washing in warm soapy water, before even taking any parts off the sprue. These are older models, those of the former Eastern Bloc, being prone to this ( I think they used 3-in-1 oil as a release agent ). Nowadays it's more likely that grease from you fingers is going to be the worst contaminant!
It depends on each kits' sequence of build before you paint, but generally as far along the sequence as you can!
Dave
 

Waspie

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I give a model a wipe down with IPA before I paint these days, but I have models in the stash that need careful washing in warm soapy water, before even taking any parts off the sprue. These are older models, those of the former Eastern Bloc, being prone to this ( I think they used 3-in-1 oil as a release agent ). Nowadays it's more likely that grease from you fingers is going to be the worst contaminant!
It depends on each kits' sequence of build before you paint, but generally as far along the sequence as you can!
Dave
Dave, I have seen a few references to IPA! What exactly is it?
 
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rtfoe

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I'm adding a spanner into the mix... :smiling6: this only works for armour. Years ago I never did wash my kits and dust would gather before I airbrushed enamel paints. Friends often ask how I got the realistic texture on the armoured surface and I would reply lucky dust.
Now you get the textures with the latest castings.
Washing and a clean surface is more commonly practised on aircraft kits.

Cheers,
Wabble
 

Ian M

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Release agent is not an issue any more as it is not commonly used. If you get an old kit then it may have release agent but not newer tooled kits.
I build a lot of old kits.


for adhesion, IF you use water based acrylics as these have very poor adhesion qualities. This is not an issue if you use lacquer acrylics or enamels
I have no problems at all with water base acrylics not holding. Infact most of my primers
Are also water based acrylics...
The most important factor is the gase is clean, dry, free from grease and dust.
 

Valeron

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I've only been modelling since January 2022. I always pre-wash my sprues in a washing up bowl with warm water and washing up liquid. I then rince and air dry.

I do this because this is what I've read that people do. I've never not done it so don't know if it really makes a difference. It is though an easy thing to do.

In my short modelling career I've only built new kits from Airfix, ICM, Tamiya and Revell. Many of the model instructions advice you to.

I think I'll stick with this method as it's easy to do, doesn't cost anything and doesn't take much time.
 

Waspie

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I've only been modelling since January 2022. I always pre-wash my sprues in a washing up bowl with warm water and washing up liquid. I then rince and air dry.

I do this because this is what I've read that people do. I've never not done it so don't know if it really makes a difference. It is though an easy thing to do.

In my short modelling career I've only built new kits from Airfix, ICM, Tamiya and Revell. Many of the model instructions advice you to.

I think I'll stick with this method as it's easy to do, doesn't cost anything and doesn't take much time.
Nothing to lose in doing it I guess. Also doesn't involve unnecessary chemicals too!!
 

Waspie

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Indian Pale Ale. Best part of modelling. Pour it into a glass and drink while waiting for paint to dry.
Now there's an idea!!! Move my stash of ale to the garage!!!! Give SWIMBO more room in the house for plonk of the wine bottle variety!!! :confused:
 

langy71

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Like so many of the guys have said over the years, it's more down to 'surface prep' than anything else when painting, so I just tend to give it a wipe down with IPA before I let loose with the airbrush, However the current Mekon build did actually get introduced to good ole fairy liquid before an extra IPA wipe down, just to be 100% sure the resin wasn't going to cause any issues...(not worked with resin before so better to be safe than sorry)
 
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davecov

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Having to been to a few modelling shows over the years (which my partner, Aileen, calls "Smelly Modeller's Shows"), I think some of those present need to concentrate on washing themselves rather than their kits. Mind you, when I go to crafting shows with Aileen, we call those "Smelly Biddy Shows" for the same reason!

I'll get my coat.

Dave
 
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