Steven
SMF Supporter
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
- Messages
- 489
- Points
- 93
- Location
- Frederiksberg Copenhagen, Denmark
- First Name
- Steven
Sounds great to me but as you know iam a sucker for lighting
BUILDING FOR THE SU 76.
- Thread starter JR
- Start date
Yes will probely get it from JS miniature lighting again..
Lee.
Steve...... If we lived nearer we could do a jointMind blowing stuff mate. Dio's are not my thing so I shall just watch on in awe as another one of your architectural masterpieces comes ptogether. Permission to carry on
build.
Well it was due in part to your influence and John in Canada that " sparked " the interest.
Well as you mostly know other more pressing things have taken place.
I have had a little play with the buildings, did a little brick scribing. Maybe tomorrow when most of the family have returned home I might get the plaster on. That's always an interesting part.Once that is achieved and dried sanding will take place.
The postman arrived Thursday morning with 8 assorted parcels, like Christmas day .
I'll post so photos of the haul.
Thanks for the interest.
John.
Evening.
Well things seem to be ok on the grandson front so I spent some happy time in a world of my own .
Last week I had prepared the foam -board., staring with the marking out and then cutting out the widows as I showed. Now was the turn of some heat, no no I didn't set fire to anything before someone asks.
tools required.
The first thing to do was play the hair dryer over the foam, about 100 mm is bast as any lower can melt if you stay in one place too long.Once warmed I took one of the knives and slipped in in under a corner and whilst still warm and playing the dryer on I moved the knife along the board, just under the paper.
The wider the blade seems to be the best option, as soon as resistance is felt a quick wave of the dryer breaks the glue line.
With a little care you can remove the complete paper front in one go , it doesn't matter if it tears, just slipe the knife under carefully and continue.
This photo shows the two boards that are being used to make up the front, in the past I would have used 10mm board, but not having much in stock I decided to use the 5mm . Now joining then together with the paper face on the inside has actually produced a stronger board, normally the 10mm devoid of paper can flex and start to bow.
The first thing was to rough up the surface of the paper, I used a 200 grit foam pad. Just enough roughage to allow the PVA to bite. Once this was done the two boards were taped together and weights put on top .
Given a couple of days to fully dry I set too and started the brick work on the end and on the internal faces. Using a scribe the brick pattern was done fairly quickly, doing the horizontal lines first and then the longer process of marking out the courses of bricks. Mine are not spot on as the thickness should be 2.83 odd mm in scale, and taking the width of the scribe point which is slightly over size, so I cheat and eye ball it
Once that was all done including the front face of the building I applied a coat of wall filler in a random way. This will be the blown plaster suffering bomb damage, on the front I have marked the stone banking sets, removing some of these with a scalpel blade , taking about .5 mm off , then I scribed the underlying brick work.
The front here is shown from the rear, so only plaster and the brick.
The above photo shows the internal section of wall with a door way, the , once the filler has dried a very gentle (mask on time ) sanding to take it back to a uniform thickness. Additional layers may be needed to tidy the job up , but you can see the idea. Although a lot of the brick scribing ends up covered it's easier to do it this way. I've tried the filler with out the brick work before and then attempting to get the brick lines in is harder. Either way this part is time consuming, but the results are worth it.
All drying now, earlier I had used my new Tamiya pin vise and some new .4 mm drill bits to clean out 200 odd Fruili tracks, wish I'd had bought that Tamiya pin-vise before, so much better and more precise having 4 differing collets.
Right that it, thanks for looking in, I 'am off for some tea.
John.
Well things seem to be ok on the grandson front so I spent some happy time in a world of my own .
Last week I had prepared the foam -board., staring with the marking out and then cutting out the widows as I showed. Now was the turn of some heat, no no I didn't set fire to anything before someone asks.
tools required.
The first thing to do was play the hair dryer over the foam, about 100 mm is bast as any lower can melt if you stay in one place too long.Once warmed I took one of the knives and slipped in in under a corner and whilst still warm and playing the dryer on I moved the knife along the board, just under the paper.
The wider the blade seems to be the best option, as soon as resistance is felt a quick wave of the dryer breaks the glue line.
With a little care you can remove the complete paper front in one go , it doesn't matter if it tears, just slipe the knife under carefully and continue.
This photo shows the two boards that are being used to make up the front, in the past I would have used 10mm board, but not having much in stock I decided to use the 5mm . Now joining then together with the paper face on the inside has actually produced a stronger board, normally the 10mm devoid of paper can flex and start to bow.
The first thing was to rough up the surface of the paper, I used a 200 grit foam pad. Just enough roughage to allow the PVA to bite. Once this was done the two boards were taped together and weights put on top .
Given a couple of days to fully dry I set too and started the brick work on the end and on the internal faces. Using a scribe the brick pattern was done fairly quickly, doing the horizontal lines first and then the longer process of marking out the courses of bricks. Mine are not spot on as the thickness should be 2.83 odd mm in scale, and taking the width of the scribe point which is slightly over size, so I cheat and eye ball it
Once that was all done including the front face of the building I applied a coat of wall filler in a random way. This will be the blown plaster suffering bomb damage, on the front I have marked the stone banking sets, removing some of these with a scalpel blade , taking about .5 mm off , then I scribed the underlying brick work.
The front here is shown from the rear, so only plaster and the brick.
The above photo shows the internal section of wall with a door way, the , once the filler has dried a very gentle (mask on time ) sanding to take it back to a uniform thickness. Additional layers may be needed to tidy the job up , but you can see the idea. Although a lot of the brick scribing ends up covered it's easier to do it this way. I've tried the filler with out the brick work before and then attempting to get the brick lines in is harder. Either way this part is time consuming, but the results are worth it.
All drying now, earlier I had used my new Tamiya pin vise and some new .4 mm drill bits to clean out 200 odd Fruili tracks, wish I'd had bought that Tamiya pin-vise before, so much better and more precise having 4 differing collets.
Right that it, thanks for looking in, I 'am off for some tea.
John.
Good to see you back at it buddy. It clears the head and keeps us wanting to see more of your fine work. Oh, and I love your sexy hairdryer there too, Dude 2...
Prost
Dude 1
Prost
Dude 1
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi John
Looking good. Good progress. Lots of really useful tips on using this board.
So glad that Jack is going to be ok.
Jim
Looking good. Good progress. Lots of really useful tips on using this board.
So glad that Jack is going to be ok.
Jim
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
John
Great work looking natural already.
Great work looking natural already.
Steven
SMF Supporter
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
- Messages
- 489
- Points
- 93
- Location
- Frederiksberg Copenhagen, Denmark
- First Name
- Steven
At it with the foam again are we ? - me too - great work mate 
- taking shape gradually
- taking shape gradually
Unfortunately it doesn't come with the blonde hottie
Thanks Jim.......I should have said that if you use KAPA board the paper peels off with out any heat.That would have been my first choice, but I had the other type in stock.
Greg... Thanks mate.
Cheers Paul.
Steven .... Don't you just love it, all great fun .At it with the foam again are we ? - me too - great work mate
Hi mate.... I found some half round tube as well for the guttering !!!
As I said to Jim if I had used the KAPA board the front face would have just pealed off with out any use of heat. In the future when I restock that's all I'm going to use. The cell structure is tighter as well so gives a higher degree of detail.
All the wall sections are in the kitchen overnight hopefully dry enough to start sanding, other wise its track assembly.
Thanks for looking in .
John.
Steven
SMF Supporter
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
- Messages
- 489
- Points
- 93
- Location
- Frederiksberg Copenhagen, Denmark
- First Name
- Steven
Steve Jones
Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Wonderful blog mate. So informative. It makes you want to go out and get some foam board and build something. Despite all your trials and tribulations lately you still have the skills to be able to turn out first class work such as this. Terrific stuff mate
Steven.....How are you getting on with the vertical cuts ? I've found that several cuts going deeper each time makes it easier to produce a good 90 deg cut.
Steve......thanks mate, I find it the best way to relax.Wonderful blog mate. So informative. It makes you want to go out and get some foam board and build something. Despite all your trials and tribulations lately you still have the skills to be able to turn out first class work such as this. Terrific stuff mate
Managed some time at the bench last night and today.
Building up the coats to represent render on the outer side walls. After all the detailing of the brick work its now all covered up , but if I need to show damage a little digging will reveal all .
On the inner walls I've tried to show the blast damage , ie the plaster falling off. I've actually put a very thin coat over the brick pattern and its filled in the mortar line. Pleased about this because it gives that look of the plaster sticking to the mortar as it sticks better there than the brick face.
Leaving it over night again, then more sanding, suppose its really a case of building up until a uniform thickness is achieved and it loos right to the eye.
Inner face, you can see the lines are filled.
Outer end wall , building this up as I said.
The building front, here I under cut the stone sets to then detail the brick .This is KAPA board with the very slight yellow colour.
I don't think you could achieve that dertail with the cheaper foam board.
I've kept the lower front section to paint and use for rubble.
Might feel like doing the tracks, as they are sitting there waiting.
Thanks for following, abuse from members of the Rabble is expected
John.
Attachments
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
John,
Looking good the detailing is taking shape.
Looking good the detailing is taking shape.
Thanks mate.
John.
Steven
SMF Supporter
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
- Messages
- 489
- Points
- 93
- Location
- Frederiksberg Copenhagen, Denmark
- First Name
- Steven
well, I use a hotwire cutter - it helps, but I still bodge it on occasion - its a case of "designed by a genius, build by a craftsman - operated by an idiot"
D
Deleted member 5819
Guest
Hi John very nice brick and stone work, looks the bizz to me the paint and weathering will bring the hole thing to life.
Pete.
the paint and weathering will bring the hole thing to life.Pete.