Jim's 1/35 Trumpeter Sd.Kfz 7/1

Allen Dewire

Proud Rabble Member
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
4,122
Points
113
Location
Bamberg
First Name
Allen
Ohhhh!!! Aren't those 6-cylinder Maybach motors sweet!!! It's crying to be detailed Jimbo....You know you really want to!!!..........

Prost
Allen
 

Panzerwrecker

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 2, 2022
Messages
362
Points
93
First Name
Los
Engine built. Lots of parts. It won't be seen as I'll have the bonnet closed. I built it partly for fun but also as I wasn't sure how much of it was needed to fix/strengthen the chassis and the bulkhead. So no wires, cables or belts to scratch :smiling:
View attachment 463580

View attachment 463581

View attachment 463582

View attachment 463583

Jim
Hi Jim

Looking good.

Only the bottom end is visible with the engine bay buttoned up, so you need to a least build the block and oil pan. The fan is extremely tight against the radiator housing but you can always remove it.
 

Jim R

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
13,841
Points
113
Location
Shropshire
First Name
Jim
A fair bit of progress, well at least it's good for me as I'm not the most speedy of modellers :thinking:

Winch, air tanks and fuel tanks. The winch attaches to two PE cross members and as Los pointed out their positioning is critical. I got it slightly wrong so had to cut of one attachment point and move it, hence the long replacement rod ready to be cut to length.
P1070125.JPG

P1070129.JPG

Rear plate
P1070126.JPG

Springs. Loads of clean up, typical with this kit
P1070127.JPG

P1070128.JPG

Coat of Stynylrez black.
P1070132.JPG

P1070133.JPG

A bit more added
P1070136.JPG

Steering assembly was fiddly
P1070135.JPG

And some wheels
P1070137.JPG

P1070138.JPG

As I said earlier I have made up the drive wheel sprockets/rollers as per the instructions.

So that's where I'm at. Next job really is to figure out the best approach for fitting the upper parts as the instructions look to have a few issues with their suggested order.

Thanks again guys.
Jim
 

Panzerwrecker

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 2, 2022
Messages
362
Points
93
First Name
Los
A fair bit of progress, well at least it's good for me as I'm not the most speedy of modellers :thinking:

Winch, air tanks and fuel tanks. The winch attaches to two PE cross members and as Los pointed out their positioning is critical. I got it slightly wrong so had to cut of one attachment point and move it, hence the long replacement rod ready to be cut to length.
View attachment 463917

View attachment 463921

Rear plate
View attachment 463918

Springs. Loads of clean up, typical with this kit
View attachment 463919

View attachment 463920

Coat of Stynylrez black.
View attachment 463925

View attachment 463926

A bit more added
View attachment 463928

Steering assembly was fiddly
View attachment 463927

And some wheels
View attachment 463929

View attachment 463930

As I said earlier I have made up the drive wheel sprockets/rollers as per the instructions.

So that's where I'm at. Next job really is to figure out the best approach for fitting the upper parts as the instructions look to have a few issues with their suggested order.

Thanks again guys.
Jim
Hi Jim, looking good

Apart from building the sprockets I am almost at the same stage. Your build steps are identical to the kit I am building until step 15 where our rear bodyworks differ. As on mine the steering shaft gets 'trapped' between the cab floor assembly and engine bulkhead. Unless you keep it loose, the front fender moulding C38, and all your rear body parts assembled must be fixed together ON the chassis.


The step sequence is good, just build up your cab floor assembly (step 22) and engine panel assembly (step 26) at the same time as you build the bulkhead in step 21 and test fit both to ensure a good fit. That bulkhead part not only determines the spacing for your cab floor and their side panels but also the spacing of all engine panels to the radiator housing so test fitting all these sub-assemblies will get the best fit at both ends.

Not sure if you are aware but the engine will NOT fit in the bay if both bulkhead AND radiator housing are attached.
 

The Smythe Meister

Born to be WILD....... until about 9pm
SMF Supporter
Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Messages
5,812
Points
113
Location
Devon
First Name
Andy
That's looking excellent Jim. :smiling3:
Lovely,detailed,and clean build.... The photos are quality too Sir, what do you take them with?!
Andy
 

Jim R

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
13,841
Points
113
Location
Shropshire
First Name
Jim
So a bit more progress. I made two very simple jigs to build up lengths of track.
P1070139.JPG

P1070140.JPG

P1070141.JPG

P1070142.JPG

Worked OK and not a lot of clean up needed - just tedious.

I made up the rear deck. I cut lengths of wood to act as spacers for positioning the fenders
P1070144.JPG

P1070143.JPG

Test fitting on the chassis showed I was very slightly out so had to make a brace to pull in the supports to fit neatly on the chassis rails. Only about 0.5mm and the brace can be removed after the deck is fitted and the glue has set.
P1070145.JPG

One thing I did notice was that the seat colour call out was different depending on what part of the instructions you looked at :thinking:
P1070148.JPG

P1070149.JPG

All sorted now thanks to Andy and his excellent book :thumb2:

Thanks guys
Jim
 
Last edited:

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,954
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Nice work with the jigs. Those separate rubber pad on the tracks just seem like a way to up the parts count to me — why couldn’t they just mould them together with the small piece that goes on top of the track link?
 

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,375
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
Great work Jim, those track parts would have caused me much stress, that's a very neat jig.
 

Panzerwrecker

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 2, 2022
Messages
362
Points
93
First Name
Los
There is too much room for error on many of their major parts connections. Compounded by multiple parts assemblies when a single moulding would have been far better. The location points for attaching the bodywork legs to the chassis rails is a case in point. It is a similar problem on my build too. When it comes to adding the wooden cargo bed on mine the shackle pins already fitted to the chassis are completely in the way of one attachment point and another attachment point is a multi-piece leg bracket affair, which is easily offset if each individual part is not judiciously cleaned up. Pretty sure the same chassis leg mouldings are used in all their 7 kits.

From all the witness location marks below my kit only uses the front and rear ones. The rear ones fit perfectly but the front ones don't align with the cut outs on the cargo bed legs and sit flush on the chassis legs unless you remove two thirds of the tabs. My middle connection points sit right on where the shackle pins are shown to locate in the very first steps:angry:

Nowhere in the instructions does it mention removing the two middle ones.

It's all a bit sloppy:confused:

20220923_0100842.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,954
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Reading all the troubles you two are having with your Trumpeter Sd.Kfz. 7s, I think that if when if I get round to building the other one or two that were used in my neck of the woods,¹ I’ll almost certainly go the hybrid route and use Dragon parts where possible and Trumpeter where it’s better, or Dragon doesn’t have the required variant.

¹ Certainly the earlier type of artillery tractor with metal body and rear bench seats, and quite probably also the V2 fire control vehicle.
 

Steve Jones

Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
6,698
Points
113
Location
Plymouth
First Name
Steve
Had a nice catch up Jim. It certainly has been a delicate operation. Great work with the jig. Going to be well worth all the hard effort my friend. Happy modelling!
 

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,375
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
This is supposed to be a fun hobby !!!!:smiling3:
 

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,954
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Tell that to the kit manufacturers ;)
 

Jim R

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
13,841
Points
113
Location
Shropshire
First Name
Jim
Thanks once again for your continued support, it means a lot :thumb2:

All the main body parts were cleaned up, built up and given a quick blast of Stynylrez primer and then grey (Tamiya XF-22)
P1070152.JPG

To fit the body I wanted the wheels on to create a stable chassis to work on. However I didn't want to fit the wheels at this stage so I used scraps of wood to make a sort of cradle/jig to hold everything secure with the wheels just dry fitted.
P1070150.JPG

Then a fair bit of fettling and a dry fit - seemed to be pretty good. I had to remove the steering wheel and the gear levers. The pale blobs on the seat area and the floor are where the parts were Blu-taced to coffee stirrers and I sprayed the wrong side :rolling:
P1070153.JPG

Rear bed and front mud guards glued in place.
P1070154.JPG

Next up the awkward bits :thinking:

Onwards and upwards.
 

Allen Dewire

Proud Rabble Member
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
4,122
Points
113
Location
Bamberg
First Name
Allen
That is looking very nice Jigs!!! A nice and smooth coat overall Sir...The awkward bits will really bring this to life.

BTW, we had to change your name from Jim to Jigs, as you seem to be addicted to the little helpers....

Prost
Allen
 

Panzerwrecker

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 2, 2022
Messages
362
Points
93
First Name
Los
Nice progress and great idea with the jig. Buggers to handle these kind of kits. The gear levers are just waiting to be snapped off!
 
Top