What's on the Bench? 2021

[Steve Jones]

That looks superb Steve
That "Jigsaw" type camo has to be one of the hardest to get to look "right".... And you've certainly more than achieved that mate!
A cracking result to be sure !!
Andy

Up early this morning Mr Smith!! It was certainly a wet one last night. I hope you didn't get flooded out.

The black lines helped a lot tidying it up but it was fun to do, but then I am a masochist

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Up early this morning Mr Smith!! It was certainly a wet one last night. I hope you didn't get flooded out.

The black lines helped a lot tidying it up but it was fun to do, but then I am a masochist

Yep,up early as the weather was so foul overnight I had to get up and drive Rach to work for her 4:30 am start!!
.... Couldn't get back to sleep when I got back!
I see what you're saying about the black lines helping.... it's still a tricky look mind to get mate
Andy

 

[PaulinKendal]

Fraid not Paul…..it just takes what it takes. I usually start prep once I’ve started painting the previous bunch. Little and often gets the job done with minimum tediousness……

As well as the small curved scalpel blade (I think it's actually 15, not 15A), fine emery paper and sanding sponges, I've been using the Citadel mouldline remover, which works surprisingly well for some stuff.

I'm starting to realize that, where the line goes through complex detail, it's sometimes better to lose some of that detail in order to remove the line, rather than making an awful mess trying to work around it.

It's still a mighty pain!

 

[Tim Marlow]

As well as the small curved scalpel blade (I think it's actually 15, not 15A), fine emery paper and sanding sponges, I've been using the Citadel mouldline remover, which works surprisingly well for some stuff.

I'm starting to realize that, where the line goes through complex detail, it's sometimes better to lose some of that detail in order to remove the line, rather than making an awful mess trying to work around it.

It's still a mighty pain!

You are correct sir. It’s a 15 I use, not a 15a. The image I got when checking was incorrectly labelled 15a is a straight bladed version. I have a three sided scraper for cleaning up large white metal castings, but for figures I find a scalpel blade more effective.
Absolutely right. The line jumps out far more than the loss of detail. My pet hate is designers that put the mould line right through the middle of the face along the line of the nose The Perry Sudan Brits are a classic example. Great sculpts but really stupid mould design on the heads…..I suppose the only up side is that you get proper ears…..

 

[PaulinKendal]

Here's where I'm stumped. Important location, tricky to mask the line with paint, reluctant to lose the wavy hair detail - but it's impossible to get a suitable tool in there! Saw mention of a "micro chisel'' recently - wonder if one of those might help?

 

[Tim Marlow]

I’d go with a small single fold of 400 grit wet and dry. It should be stiff enough to keep its shape and so work like a very fine round file, leaving you able to remodel the wavy hair if needed…..it should work on the cloak as well…..

 

[JR]

Just this

 

[Steve Jones]

No "just" about that JR. Great brick work my friend

 

[Tim Marlow]

Yep, agree with young rivet……excellent work.

 

[MAK2020]

1/35 Bradley M2 infantry version. Gulf war 1991. Basic kit Tamiya.

Adding antislip. Base and primer colour is drap olive green (painted before 1991). Regular colour over it will be FS33446 for desert as regulative AR750-1 from this period says (standard sand yellow colour from Desert Storm).

 

[Mark1]

A quickie , su39 frogfoot tank destroyer

 

[Tim Marlow]

Good work on the Bradley Mak. Up to your usual high standard.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Nice start on froggy Mark.

 

[Airborne01]

Hi Paul
i mainly use a Scalpel fitted with a number 15A blade, and sometimes some 400 grit wet and dry. The blade is a small curved one that can be used to scrape or cut. I prefer curved blades for scraping because you don’t get surface scratches. Takes about fifteen minutes a figure though….

Tim,
The 15 is the most-used blade in my varied armoury - definitely the most versatile and I'd recommend anybody to add them if not already in possession!
Steve

 

[Tim Marlow]

Tim,
The 15A is the most-used blade in my varied armoury - definitely the most versatile and I'd recommend anybody to add them if not already in possession!
Steve

Totally agree. I buy them by the hundred……it’s far cheaper. I use unsterile only though, I’m cutting plastic, not skin!

 

[Airborne01]

Totally agree. I buy them by the hundred……it’s far cheaper. I use unsterile only though, I’m cutting plastic, not skin!

Me too! The lower curve of the blade is also so useful for 'adzing' seam lines on round components!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Slightly scary what Swann Morton make though…..

Surgical Instruments - Surgical Blades, Scalpels and Handles from Swann-Morton

A range of surgical blades and handles including retractables, fine range, majhor range, disposable scalpels, stitch cutters, post mortem and skin graft.

www.swann-morton.com

 

[Tim Marlow]

Me too! The lower curve of the blade is also so useful for 'adzing' seam lines on round components!

Also works well for scraping seams off of flat components without leaving tram lines…..

 

[Tim Marlow]

Well the big pig is done….

More shots on her own thread here..

Tim’s Sd.Kfz 263 started Autumn 2014

Well, this thing is really giving me the hump now…….not only is detail painting really hard because there are so many sticking out bits making it really fragile, but this just happened! Remember me saying why I abandoned this build seven years ago…..I lost a rear hatch door, couldn’t find it...

www.scale-models.co.uk

 

[MAK2020]

Now i must make research how really looks non slip under trim vane on front of vehicle. And first layer of desert camouflage is done, especially reason is for better gluing of applied sand.