Yes, and you might win the lottery too … But at least you can test the jerrycan handlesI mean all 1/35 jerry cans are the same size, right?
I’m a Complete novice at making resin moulds and castings Mr Smiff……but have been having a dabble nonethelessGonna show my ignorance here....
...( and let's be honest, there's plenty of that !! )....
But WHY does our resin stuff come on such huge blocks... usually it seems to me that it's a case of "The more delicate the piece... the thicker,(and more difficult to get off without damaging it), we'll make the casting blocks".
... Just my thoughts!!
A lot of the fine jerry can handles are broken out of the bag, most of it is pretty robust though.That resin storage looks very fragile in parts.
Ere,thanks mateI’m a Complete novice at making resin moulds and castings Mr Smiff……but have been having a dabble nonetheless
Ive found the block size can help with filling the cavity when pouring the resin and also with demoulding the part.
If your interested there is a this chap on YouTube
You asked for that Andy ! See you should stay on the ground at all times . You wouldn't see Cohan flying would you ?Oh very Droll !! ..........
........ Doesn`t my Achilles count then?
Because it’s usually cast in moulds with an opening to pour the resin into. Off the top of my head, I expect that this opening needs to be large enough to easily pour the resin, to supply a reserve of resin as it sinks deeper into the mould (especially during tapping or centrifuging to get rid of air bubbles), and to serve as a large enough handle to remove the finished part from the mould. That last one necessitates a fairly large opening anyway, because resin parts usually come from one-piece moulds, so the whole part needs to go through it — you simply can’t cast the part with a small pour block attached because that would trap the part inside the mould.But WHY does our resin stuff come on such huge blocks...
I think it’s also required to give the poured resin mass and head pressure to force it into all parts of the mould Jakko.Because it’s usually cast in moulds with an opening to pour the resin into. Off the top of my head, I expect that this opening needs to be large enough to easily pour the resin, to supply a reserve of resin as it sinks deeper into the mould (especially during tapping or centrifuging to get rid of air bubbles), and to serve as a large enough handle to remove the finished part from the mould. That last one necessitates a fairly large opening anyway, because resin parts usually come from one-piece moulds, so the whole part needs to go through it — you simply can’t cast the part with a small pour block attached because that would trap the part inside the mould.
Not sure resin is cast in centrifuges. I know white metal is, but not sure about resin. I’ve not had a huge amount to do with resin, but don’t remember mould lines, so am not sure if they use traditional two part centrifuge moulds.Good point. Though that would be mostly an issue if you’re not using a centrifuge, wouldn’t it? (That said, I have never cast anything in my life except plaster in moulds intended for children, of which I was one at the time )
Vacuum chamber to get the bubbles out of the silicone when making the mould.AFAIK it’s mostly cast in one-piece moulds, which may or may not be a legacy of Verlinden doing that since the early 80s or so and everybody else following his example But I’d imagine they would want to get the air bubbles out, so maybe a different style of centrifuge that doesn’t take flat, round moulds?
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