CZOTG DOWODZENIA PZ.Inz.126 (1/35)sorry its all Polish to me

[Jakko]

Sounds like another one of those kits, if not brands, to put on the list of “don’t buy if you only have experience with Tamiya so far”

 

[Tim Marlow]

Sounds like another one of those kits, if not brands, to put on the list of “don’t buy if you only have experience with Tamiya so far”

Yes, but how do you improve your skill set if you only ever go for shake and bake kits? Not saying this should be anyone’s first kit, but I’m sure it’s OK once you’ve cracked a few from the big T.

 

[David Lovell]

Yes, but how do you improve your skill set if you only ever go for shake and bake kits? Not saying this should be anyone’s first kit, but I’m sure it’s OK once you’ve cracked a few from the big T.

Come on tim when have you ever seen me shake and bake ,I like OOBing but never seem to get any luck could be because I mostly build what most consider to be poor quality kits(no such thing as a bad kit just some are better than others)the top price stuff is im sure excellent and for the price it should be I do wonder if the more recent recruits to the hobby see S+B as standard ,makes me giggle when they gasp in horror at a little bit of flash ,seam lines knock out marks heaven forbid a sink marks ,the few of us left remember when that was just part and parcel of it all ,perhaps we have to accept times change why shouldn't the new set of modelers just want to build and go look at all the finishing products now even painting and weathering has moved to being S+B. Every one to their own live and let live. Dave

 

[David Lovell]

Well have just spent ages going over and over the sprues looking for the totally non existent bits that go in here so you can fit the rear return wheel/thingy

Not i might add the first piece not to be found in the box or not mentioned in the instructions ,so have studied the line/colouring drawings it'll just get a hole drilled in what I consider the appropriate place i think the axel/rod thingy should be plenty long enough to keep it in line with the road wheel/bogey bits

Only concern being that if the useless rubber tracks come up short it might not be strong enough ,any way back to the bench to carry out this medical procedure thinking now it might pay to drill out and insert a metal rod just to be safe ,I know all this sounds like whingeing but deep down I do enjoy it nothing like slapping your self on the back. Dave

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

This is making my head hurt and eyes water!
Looking at the plan sheets, in looks like the rear idler should have a bit that fits over the axle pin, to make the wheel position adjustable!? What the what?
Time to ggogly translate the specific instruction?

 

[David Lovell]

Hold the press ,gave it all one last look at the sprues then amongst my mess saw one I thought was empty and there hidden in the corner barley visible i found them the missing parts ,although to look at them you wouldn't think they were up for the job looking at the rear slot ,id also been looking for something more substantial . Dave

 

[Jakko]

Yes, but how do you improve your skill set if you only ever go for shake and bake kits?

I didn’t mean to suggest there are only two categories, “Tamiya” and “too hard” Just that a kit like this is probably not a good choice as your first non-Tamiya one.

 

[JR]

Your in your element Dave, good to see you have just about every type of plastic cement known to man. Never a bad thing.

 

[Si Benson]

Your in your element Dave, good to see you have just about every type of plastic cement known to man. Never a bad thing.

No such thing as a bad plastic cement John, just some are better than others, ….. Sorry Dave I could resist!

You do like the unusual stuff Dave! I have every confidence you’ll get this one shipshape and Bristol fashion in no time

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

Yep. So it DOES appear that the idler position is adjustable

For no good reason
Oh yeah . Rubber tracks

Blimey

 

[David Lovell]

Right so with the appropriate parts making a appearance with a bit of fettling got the running gear ready for the rubber tracks ,as i mentioned before was worried about them comming up short and putting to much pressure on the rear wheel/return roller thingy a quick dummy run showed them to be a bit iffy ,thoes of a weak disposition look away now ,well what else is a man supposed
former self's. To save any hassle I also preformed a little dentistry on the drive sprockets.
Starting half on one of the road wheels about three from the front worked my way towards the back tacking to each wheel with ca ,up around the rear return roller thingy along the top towards the drive sprocket setting and tacking the sag in place ,round the hassel free toothless sprocket and down to the road wheels cutting it to fit and tacking to the half exposed wheel ,I never ever join my tracks on the top run because if it goes chesticls up you can't hide it. So some pic's




Yes I know its all a bit ott and it would throw the tracks but I think its cool and looks the part ,in my world anyway so there. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it finished and with a bit of luck some paint on it over the weekend. Dave

 

[David Lovell]

No such thing as a bad plastic cement John, just some are better than others, ….. Sorry Dave I could resist!

You do like the unusual stuff Dave! I have every confidence you’ll get this one shipshape and Bristol fashion in no time

Your in your element Dave, good to see you have just about every type of plastic cement known to man. Never a bad thing.

Si ,John ,thanks for coming to the party as your both aware I do like a kit from the Eastern block side of town ,now there's no such thing as bad plastic just some of its better than others(back at ya Si ). Although these cements are supposed to do the same job ,with the kits from that side all the plastic changes from manufacturer to manufacturer you'd be surprised some of the cements are too strong and will even dissolve small parts others fail to even weld the plastic so ive learnt to cover all bases ,plus look at them there all lined up how cute is that . Dave

 

[JR]

What's a bit of sag amongst friends.

 

[Stefee]

"What's a bit of sag amongst friends."
Especially true at my age.

 

[David Lovell]

What's a bit of sag amongst friends.

Like I said John wrong but looks the part remember this one i did for the Simon T memorial

They were indy links if I recall bloody horrendous, looking at the quality of the mouldings here(HobbyBoss) compared to what I'm working with now ive a feeling a bit of mud could be on the menu.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Been following all along on your jump to the big side Dave. You definitely have a knack for taking a so-so kit and making a beauty out of it. This one is no different and you're off to a great start Sir. Don't worry about the sag Buddy. Like the guys said, at our age, everything goes south anyway!!! Keep it coming!!!...

Prost
Allen

 

[JR]

Like I said John wrong but looks the part remember this one i did for the Simon T memorial
View attachment 494927
They were indy links if I recall bloody horrendous, looking at the quality of the mouldings here(HobbyBoss) compared to what I'm working with now ive a feeling a bit of mud could be on the menu.

To me that looks right, I quote
It boils down to two reasons: 1) design, and 2) maintenance. A live track with a particular bushing design will give some counter action to natural sag weight and help spring the track back up, while a "dead" track does not. As far back as the the Lee/Grant, Stuart, and Sherman, US tanks have used a "live" track. The only time you saw real sag on those, like on other countries contemporary tanks is when the rubber bushings burned away. Maintenance of keeping proper track tension and replacing worn shoes/links will minimize throwing track due to maneuvers or terrain.

Live or dead tracks are not dependent upon suspension type such as return rollers, Christie, Torsion Bar, etc. In the late Cold War era, the Soviets began to refit their older tank designs such as the T-55 and T-62 which originally had a dead track with the same type of track as on the T-72 which was a live track.
Taken from a post on Fine Scale Modeller.

 

[Jakko]

The reason for live track, BTW, is because it reduces rolling resistance. The rubber bushings keep the links at a slight angle to each other when the track is “relaxed” (7.5° on Sherman track, off the top of my head) which means they curve around the sprocket, idler, and front and rear roadwheels more easily than dead track. You can recognise whether track is live or dead when you see it flat on the ground, for example in photos of the crew changing track: with live track, the last link will curve upward a little.

 

[Jim R]

Well Dave, you're definitely getting somewhere with this. Chopping off bits and searching for other bits - all part of the fun.
Another big advantage of a kit "like this" is that it makes a far more interesting blog to follow than a simple shake and bake kit does

 

[David Lovell]

Well Dave, you're definitely getting somewhere with this. Chopping off bits and searching for other bits - all part of the fun.
Another big advantage of a kit "like this" is that it makes a far more interesting blog to follow than a simple shake and bake kit does

You don't get much for under a tenner Jim but so far all good fun ,to be honest I did think that chopping the roof off of the upper hull was well outside of my comfort zone oooood and ahhhh'd in the end thought sod it nothing to lose worked out a little plan of action and dived in ,all came good ,luck or judgment were never know but blow me it fitted like a glove. Had I not been my usual lazy slobby self id have got up and rooted through my modeling cupboard somewhere ive one of thoes hand held rotary grinder /burr'y/drilly things ,but got it done with a razor saw a scaple and sanding sticks would it have helped made it easier who knows but shows a few standard modeling tools will get the job done.