DKM Scharnhorst 1943 - 1/350 Dragon Kit + extras

C

Caledonia

Guest
\ said:
?...........What is your chosen weapon for glue on your build?
Hi John, I use Delux Materials 'Super Penetrating Super Glue', see photo. I also use Mr Hobby, Mr Glue Applicator, see photo, for handrails and other larger Items. I find the Crescent shaped tool especially good. I use the dish provided when I have a lot of items to glue, but if I only have a couple of Items I put a drop of glue on a piece of glossy cardboard. This glue is excellent for exploiting capillary action. I sometimes also 'butter' the area on the plastic with the CA where the PE goes, this works well when attaching ladders/stairways etc.


For tiny pieces I use the Loctite Gel, and put a spot on a toothpick and apply it to where the piece goes. I often use bluetac rolled to a point to pick up very small pieces of PE, this helps getting the piece onto pointed tweezers.


Hope this helps. Derek


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G

Graham D

Guest
" What is your chosen weapon for glue on your build?
I use a glue looper for applying thin cyno in small quantities. http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html
 
J

John Rixon

Guest
Cool, I'm gonna need all the help I can get - I've just seen the tool clamps on my Dragon Marder iii, smaller than a gnat's baw hair!
 
J

John Rixon

Guest
\ said:
Hi John, I use Delux Materials 'Super Penetrating Super Glue', see photo. I also use Mr Hobby, Mr Glue Applicator, see photo, for handrails and other larger Items. I find the Crescent shaped tool especially good. I use the dish provided when I have a lot of items to glue, but if I only have a couple of Items I put a drop of glue on a piece of glossy cardboard. This glue is excellent for exploiting capillary action. I sometimes also 'butter' the area on the plastic with the CA where the PE goes, this works well when attaching ladders/stairways etc.
For tiny pieces I use the Loctite Gel, and put a spot on a toothpick and apply it to where the piece goes. I often use bluetac rolled to a point to pick up very small pieces of PE, this helps getting the piece onto pointed tweezers.


Hope this helps. Derek


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Is is easy to keep clean, Stona mentioned in my other post that acetone is quite useful to keep them clean!
 
C

Caledonia

Guest
I just wipe the tools with some old clean rag, never tried nail varnish. Derek
 
D

Deleted member 4539

Guest
\ said:
Cool, I'm gonna need all the help I can get - I've just seen the tool clamps on my Dragon Marder iii, smaller than a gnat's baw hair!
Hi John.I use a good PVA to attach all my PE these day's Yes it takes a bit longer to dry but you get that bit of extra time to place piece's.And any excess can be wiped away with a damp brush.
 
J

John Rixon

Guest
\ said:
Hi John.I use a good PVA to attach all my PE these day's Yes it takes a bit longer to dry but you get that bit of extra time to place piece's.And any excess can be wiped away with a damp brush.
And it doesn't break off easily?
 
D

Deleted member 4539

Guest
\ said:
And it doesn't break off easily?
No it does not.


I have found that it gives a better bond than CA(for me personally).


But like any join with certain glues it is possible to come off.


Once undercoated the bond is even better because the paint also holds it.
 
C

Caledonia

Guest
\ said:
Is is easy to keep clean, Stona mentioned in my other post that acetone is quite useful to keep them clean!
Hi John, was in Asda at the beginning of the week and bought a bottle of nail varnish remover 'Cutex' with acetone; it does help clean the tools. I also had a small plastic container with dried up CA in it, so I dunked it in a glass jar with the Cutex, left it for half a day and it softened the CA into a thick gunge which I dug out with a screw driver. Was able to clean the container as good as new. So a good tip from Stona. Derek
 
C

Caledonia

Guest
This week I have been trying to finish the PE on the superstructure. In the photos below the Superstructure is still loose from the deck, and the forward Superstructure is loose from the Boat Deck, I think it will be easier to paint if I leave them separate.


On the uppermost platform on the fwd. Superstructure under the Radar, I have added some wire braces to each of the four Yards, this is not on the kit but appears on the box art and on photos of Scharnhorst. These yards are very slender, and probably would not survive the rigging without these braces.


In Detail 8, I have replaced the kit part numbers MC38 with some 0.75mm round Evergreen, as these parts look ridiculously small.


I will now be moving onto the ancillary fittings i.e. Cranes, Reels, Ships Boats etc. and finally the Masts.


Derek


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C

Caledonia

Guest
Thanks for the positive comments Lads, it is much appreciated.


Neither the kit nor the PE aftermarket provide handrails around the aft Range Finders so I have added some from my spares box.


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Have made up and fitted the lower section of the aft Mast. I found it easier to fit the three platforms first to the loose mast, then the handrails and finally the ladders before fitting to the superstructure with the two braces. The upper mast sections are ready to fit at a later date.


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Unlike the KGV kit where the breakwaters, bollards, fairleaders, skylights etc. were moulded as part of the deck, on the Scharnhorst all of these have to be fitted individually.


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Derek
 

takeslousyphotos

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Peter
That is superb work Derek......When I try PE all I mange to do is stick either the tweezers to it or my fingers together....... So the nail varnish thing is probably a good idea. :smiling3:
 
J

Jase

Guest
\ said:
HELP PLEASE
Was trawling the internet doing my research on this vessel, and saw a model of the Scharnhorst with the Turret tops painted Red. Did some more research and found that two German Destroyers had been accidentally sunk by the Luftwaffe; following these incidents it became standard procedure for Capital Ships to paint their Turret Tops either Red or Yellow when the vessels entered waters patrolled by the Luftwaffe in order to prevent a repeat. I am guessing that the Swastikas fitted on the Fore and Aft decks were also part of this temporary identification procedure.


Question: - Can anyone confirm that the Swastikas were only present when the Turrets were painted Red/Yellow. I am pretty sure they were, can't think the Germans would provide 'bulls eyes' for the RAF/Fleet Air Arms.
you are correct the swastika was covered when in open sea. It is documented that Bismarck had her identification marks painted out while in Norway before heading to the Atlantic. that paint has now weather away leaving the swastika clearly on show on the wreck.


Jase
 
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