C
Caledonia
Guest
Thanks for viewing, and your kind comments Gents.
Finished the weathering, it's a bit more subtle than the photos suggest, the rust shows much brighter than in reality, and the grey shading is not very visible. Technique used is to wet the area to be worked on with solvent and use a fine tipped brush to add the artist oils, if you are not happy with it, wipe it off with a cotton bud and repeat. Very seldom is it right first time. When finished give everything a coat of Varnish to seal it in, I used the Humbrol aerosol as identified previously.
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Started the rigging, first a comparison. The photo below shows from left to right a human hair, UNI-Caenis 20 Denier, the silk thread I used, and the Fine EZ Line.
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Next photo shows the silk thread I used and shows the curl as it comes off the reel. In order to remove the curl, I put a small drop of fast drying PVA Glue on my index finger, and using my thumb also I run the thread through several times, rolling the thread slightly as it passes through, and then hold the thread in tension for a few seconds. You will see the straightened (but still flexible) thread below the PVA bottle.
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Next I drilled three 0.7mm dia. holes as shown to receive the rigging. Obviously it is important to leave off the Captain/Admiral Bridge in order to gain access. Next I feed the thread through the 0.3mm dia. holes on the PE yards, until one side is filled. I then using PVA and the same technique, to glue both ends of each lanyard together. I then feed the five ends through one of the holes drilled previously and tension them in my fingers aided by tweezers. I then glue them at the hole with super glue gel administered on a sharpened cocktail stick. Finally I then cut the loose ends off with a sharp scalpel.
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Next week I will do the between mask rigging. Note it is much easier to do as much rigging on the superstructure before fitting the superstructure to the deck. Derek
Finished the weathering, it's a bit more subtle than the photos suggest, the rust shows much brighter than in reality, and the grey shading is not very visible. Technique used is to wet the area to be worked on with solvent and use a fine tipped brush to add the artist oils, if you are not happy with it, wipe it off with a cotton bud and repeat. Very seldom is it right first time. When finished give everything a coat of Varnish to seal it in, I used the Humbrol aerosol as identified previously.
View attachment 100756
View attachment 100757
View attachment 100758
Started the rigging, first a comparison. The photo below shows from left to right a human hair, UNI-Caenis 20 Denier, the silk thread I used, and the Fine EZ Line.
View attachment 100759
Next photo shows the silk thread I used and shows the curl as it comes off the reel. In order to remove the curl, I put a small drop of fast drying PVA Glue on my index finger, and using my thumb also I run the thread through several times, rolling the thread slightly as it passes through, and then hold the thread in tension for a few seconds. You will see the straightened (but still flexible) thread below the PVA bottle.
View attachment 100760
View attachment 100761
Next I drilled three 0.7mm dia. holes as shown to receive the rigging. Obviously it is important to leave off the Captain/Admiral Bridge in order to gain access. Next I feed the thread through the 0.3mm dia. holes on the PE yards, until one side is filled. I then using PVA and the same technique, to glue both ends of each lanyard together. I then feed the five ends through one of the holes drilled previously and tension them in my fingers aided by tweezers. I then glue them at the hole with super glue gel administered on a sharpened cocktail stick. Finally I then cut the loose ends off with a sharp scalpel.
View attachment 100762
View attachment 100763
View attachment 100764
View attachment 100765
View attachment 100766
View attachment 100767
Next week I will do the between mask rigging. Note it is much easier to do as much rigging on the superstructure before fitting the superstructure to the deck. Derek