Scotties Bedford RL
- Thread starter scottie3158
- Start date
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
It's getting that way mate.
And you're having a great time too Buddy!!! Sure your middle name isn't Scratchy??? I do wonder sometimes and I bet you sign your checks with Paul S. Scott...Most excellent work my friend!!!
Prost
Allen
Prost
Allen
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Hi Dude, On this build mate it's a case of no choice as the bits are missing but I am having fun.
I think that's normal for Scottie's builds.
Pete
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
I'm sorry to say that I don't think I will be finishing this any time soon. The body and chassis I was happy with the result of the modifications and the actual kit parts. But despite 3 attempts to sort the glazing out on the cab, I cannot get a result I am happy with. So this has been put back in the box .
This kit has really made ne think twice about doing anymore resin kits, which is a great shame as there are some interesting subjects out there.
Thanks for following along and the support.
cheers
Scottie
This kit has really made ne think twice about doing anymore resin kits, which is a great shame as there are some interesting subjects out there.
Thanks for following along and the support.
cheers
Scottie
Sorry to hear that Paul...It seemed like you were having such a good time fixing it......OK, maybe not....Take a break from it and in a few weeks, maybe the urge will strike you to finish it. It was looking really nice Buddy....
Prost
Allen
Prost
Allen
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Cheers Dude, I was really happy with the way the rest of it had turned out but you can't hide glazing issues and the cab is the focal point of a build. I will have a think about what I can do to resolve it and maybe I will get round to it again. Thanks for the support along the way.
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
cheers Dude very kind of you the money is in the normal place third cubicle from the left.
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Thanks Andy but just can't get the glazing to fit. Maybe a other day.
Mr. Scottie, you have my full condolences when it comes to a situation such as this. I too am in a similar place and it has been bothering me for some time now. I hope this does not get you into a similar slump.....wouldn't wish this on anyone. 
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- Jakko
Resin AFV kits are generally easier to build than softskins, because there are far fewer fiddly bits to line up correctly for the main shapes. Plus, little or no glass windows
Airborne01
SMF Supporter
Sorry to hear that mate - I empathise with you, perhaps some time hence we'll see the culmination of your efforts!
Steve
Steve
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Rick, cheers mate I will put it to one side and move on. Dig something out of the stash and get yourself back to the bench it will work wonders.Mr. Scottie, you have my full condolences when it comes to a situation such as this. I too am in a similar place and it has been bothering me for some time now. I hope this does not get you into a similar slump.....wouldn't wish this on anyone.
Jakko, The main reason is its a very curved shape and due to the moulding there is no definitive locations for the glass.Resin AFV kits are generally easier to build than softskins, because there are far fewer fiddly bits to line up correctly for the main shapes. Plus, little or no glass windows
Cheers Steve, I hope so mate it would be a shame after all the work that went in to it.
Too good to give up on us this one Paul. Give it a rest then come back at it after rethinking the problem. The glazing shouldn’t be too bad really. It is flat glass after all. There are a couple of approaches to this that I’ve used in the past, and one that comes to mind when looking at pictures of the real truck.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Tim thanks mate some excellent food for thought. I do like the idea of thicker material. I will have to see what I have.Too good to give up on us this one Paul. Give it a rest then come back at it after rethinking the problem. The glazing shouldn’t be too bad really. It is flat glass after all. There are a couple of approaches to this that I’ve used in the past, and one that comes to mind when looking at pictures of the real truck.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.
You can disguise the edge thickness by painting edges black mate. Gets rid of that mirror silvered effect to a certain extent. After all, the glass is set in a rubber surround anyway.
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Too good and too much work done to give up on Scottie. Put it away safe and think about it. Some time in the future you'll have an idea which will work.