1/72 U-boat 249

[Deleted member 81]

Amazing levels of detail in this model Glenn, that tower is looking superb.

Thank you very much, Sav / Richard. I have a few more parts to make,than off to the paint shop. This is my first U-BOAT and I've enjoyed this build thou I have had a few set backs the starbord rudder fell off and I rolled over it with the office chair "#%$&*#!!#". [see photos] also the hand rails on the stern part of the 3,7mm gun deck were not right so I rebuilt the rails again, the rudder took a little more time to rebuild.[the rebuilt rudder is on the left and the last photo is me on the BIG E USS ENTERPRISE CVN-65 on the side of the JBD cat one I'm onbord thanking photos for a build I'm also working on. again thank you for kind words. Glenn

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[Savvy]

Hi Glenn,

This is excellent stuff, I'm looking forwards to seeing your approach to the painting and weathering.

I notice in pic's 4 and 5 that you have a really nice brass turnbuckle for the aerial hawser. Where did you get these? I've been busting my ass trying to scratch these with limited success in both looks and the strength required in this small but important detail. Any pointers would be VERY much appreciated!

All the best,

Sav.

 

[Deleted member 81]

Hi Glenn,This is excellent stuff, I'm looking forwards to seeing your approach to the painting and weathering.

I notice in pic's 4 and 5 that you have a really nice brass turnbuckle for the aerial hawser. Where did you get these? I've been busting my ass trying to scratch these with limited success in both looks and the strength required in this small but important detail. Any pointers would be VERY much appreciated!

All the best,

Sav.

Hi Sav, thank you, I made them using 1/32 .006 brass tubing and the ends of the turnbuckels are from the wem 7232 pe set, then I used the slow set ca glue to set the ends [zap in the lime green bottle] I just finnished putting the rigging together, I will reinstall them when the sub is painted. Glenn

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[Deleted member 81]

Hi Sav, thank you, I made them using 1/32 .006 brass tubing and the ends of the turnbuckels are from the model brass pe set, then I used the slow set ca glue to set the ends [zap in the lime green bottle] I just finnished putting the rigging together, I will reinstall them when the sub is painted. Glenn

Sorry about the dubble photo. Glenn

 

[Savvy]

Oh Ohh, now you've gone and done it!

You have the rigging set up i have wished for since starting U-69, a multitude of questions will now follow....

What are you using for the hawser, fishing line? How did you make the insulators and more to the point how did you 'thread' them together? they look stunning, clean and well spaced! Are all the little brass connectors from the model brass set? I could go on.....As you may be able to tell this area has been bugging me for some time now!

Thanks for any pointers,

Sav.

 

[Deleted member 81]

Hi again Sav, I cut sheet plastic .060 x .060 by 4.5 ml. long; then took a microsaw and cut grooves in the center of each 4 sides; then x'ed the ends to match the lines on the face of the insulaturs; then took a fine sanding stick and rounding the ends. The connectors were made from scratch - see attached photo. Be careful tho, you'll need to make a lot of them because they will fly and have you hunting in the carpet for a long time. For the pin, I used .02 brass rod,and sheet brass. The hawser is going to be a trick. I'll see if I can word this properly. The line I used is what is called bead line and I imagine you can pick that up at any craft store. To make, take two straight pins and put them into a cork board, wind your string around each pin; pinch in the middle and use a very small amount of thin CA glue. Once you've done that, place 2 of the insulators in the smaller loops you've just created. We'll call this "loop two". One and three is basically the same, but you have to thread loop one and three through the insulators on two. Once you have all three insulators in a row, number 2 stays where it is and you twist #1 and #3 180 degrees. Now connecting the insulator to the connectors, make a loop as you did on the insulators and tie off with a very thin micro fishing line or craft line. Tie it and pull one time, slide it up your string; again taking your CA glue (thin), give it a little dab to hold it in place, then trim off the excess line carefullly with an extremely sharp exacto blade. You have to be very careful to only glue the string because the connectors and the insulators are free floating as the working real ones. Too much glue and the line will look stiff. If you need any more info, or if I can send you some closer shots, you can pm me and I will send you my email address. See attached photos. I hope this helps. Glenn P.S. If you want to go all the way I cut glass for both periscope lenz's

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[Savvy]

Glenn,

Thank you very much for taking time out to describe this for me, with photo's included! Brilliant.

If i can get half way to what you have here i'll be a happy man!

Thank's again,

Sav.

 

[Deleted member 81]

Glenn,Thank you very much for taking time out to describe this for me, with photo's included! Brilliant.

If i can get half way to what you have here i'll be a happy man!

Thank's again,

Sav.

Not at all Sav, I was happy to do it. Glenn

 

[Deleted member 81]

Hi Glenn,This is excellent stuff, I'm looking forwards to seeing your approach to the painting and weathering.

I notice in pic's 4 and 5 that you have a really nice brass turnbuckle for the aerial hawser. Where did you get these? I've been busting my ass trying to scratch these with limited success in both looks and the strength required in this small but important detail. Any pointers would be VERY much appreciated!

All the best,

Sav.

Sav, here are some photo's of the rust and chipping paint I am messing around with for U-249, this is what I have come up with so far, as a test. Glenn

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[Savvy]

Hi Glenn,

Carry on like that and you should have no worries, the effect you have captured here is superb! Keep the pic's coming, i can't wait to see what you do with this.

Sav.

 

[Deleted member 81]

Hi Glenn,Carry on like that and you should have no worries, the effect you have captured here is superb! Keep the pic's coming, i can't wait to see what you do with this.

Sav.

thank you Sav, a little more refinement , and I think I'l have it. Glenn

 

[rfield]

It's now July 4; have you finished it yet?

Hi, Glenn -

I'm building a 1/144 Revell Type VIIC; I'm going to try your approach to making the insulators (they'll be half the size of yours, of course), but I'm really interested to see your finished model. Your last post here (I think) was in March, and here it is July already (Christmas is at our throats again!). Have you made any further progress?

TIA!

Russ

 

[Deleted member 81]

Hi, Glenn -I'm building a 1/144 Revell Type VIIC; I'm going to try your approach to making the insulators (they'll be half the size of yours, of course), but I'm really interested to see your finished model. Your last post here (I think) was in March, and here it is July already (Christmas is at our throats again!). Have you made any further progress?

TIA!

Russ

Hi Russ, I joined in March , I'm just getting started on the painting and weathering, my last set of photos are of me tinkering with the rust on a old LST hull for the U-249 build, if you have any questions let me know and I'l help if I can. regards Glenn

 

[rfield]

A question of some dimension ...

Hi Russ, I joined in March , I'm just getting started on the painting and weathering, my last set of photos are of me tinkering with the rust on a old LST hull for the U-249 build, if you have any questions let me know and I'l help if I can. regards Glenn

Well, I beat you for "newness" - just joined today! :^)

I do have a question for you. In your description of making the insulators, you said you used styrene blocks ".060x.060 by 4.5 ml long"; I assume you meant "4.5 mm long"? That being the case, that would translate to a real-life dimension of roughly 4-4.5" dia. by 12.75" long. If THAT's right, might I ask where you got the dimensions? I've looked all over and can't find any specific reference. Best I've been able to do is scrutinize period pics.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Deleted member 81]

Well, I beat you for "newness" - just joined today! :^)I do have a question for you. In your description of making the insulators, you said you used styrene blocks ".060x.060 by 4.5 ml long"; I assume you meant "4.5 mm long"? That being the case, that would translate to a real-life dimension of roughly 4-4.5" dia. by 12.75" long. If THAT's right, might I ask where you got the dimensions? I've looked all over and can't find any specific reference. Best I've been able to do is scrutinize period pics.

Thanks for your help!

Hi Russ, I didn't use any thing more then some photos for the basic scale,then I worked more on the scale of the model, and that is how I came up with my dimensions. regards Glenn

 

[rfield]

Yeah, that's basically what I did ...

Hi Russ, I didn't use any thing more then some photos for the basic scale,then I worked more on the scale of the model, and that is how I came up with my dimensions. regards Glenn

In all the references I've seen (including the Anatomy of the Ship volume on U-boats), nothing deals directly or specifically with the rigging hardware. I'm also coming to the conclusion that not all rigging was the same on all Type VIIs. For example, I think I see (period pics are generally lousy for rigging detail) a second antenna wire on the aft end of the conning tower on some boats, but not all. Also, there seems to be some difference in rigging hardware, mounting and other details - none of which is specifically covered in any references I've found. The hardware you've made is fantastic, but I've not found it (so far) in any illustrations. Where'd you see it?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Deleted member 81]

In all the references I've seen (including the Anatomy of the Ship volume on U-boats), nothing deals directly or specifically with the rigging hardware. I'm also coming to the conclusion that not all rigging was the same on all Type VIIs. For example, I think I see (period pics are generally lousy for rigging detail) a second antenna wire on the aft end of the conning tower on some boats, but not all. Also, there seems to be some difference in rigging hardware, mounting and other details - none of which is specifically covered in any references I've found. The hardware you've made is fantastic, but I've not found it (so far) in any illustrations. Where'd you see it?Thanks again for your help!

Thank you Russ, most of the rererence photos are from the Warship Pictorial number 26 [see photos] another book is U-Boats in action by squadron/signal publications Warship number one,other information is from the net.You my even try u-tube look under u-boats,or Kriegsmarine,hope this helps. regards Glenn

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[Deleted member 81]

Hi Gent's, I'm am now starting to weather U-249, begining with the chipping pant below the water line this is the first of four steps. Glenn

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[Siara]

The paint chips looks superb, but the smoke? What is it- preshading of some sort? I dont recall the smoke stains in the front of the U-boat.

 

[Deleted member 81]

The paint chips looks superb, but the smoke? What is it- preshading of some sort? I dont recall the smoke stains in the front of the U-boat.

Hi Siara and thank you, It's not smoke if you look at the photo's I just posted look at the top of the ballast tank the dark spots are where the heaviest of the rust is [deep pitting]. Glenn

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