Land Rover with a difference.

[Steve Jones]

Very impressed with the metal work. What will you coat it in before painting to stop the paint from chipping off?? Thanks in advance

 

[MikeC]

Very impressed with the metal work. What will you coat it in before painting to stop the paint from chipping off?? Thanks in advance

Hi Steve,
Hycote car primer, decanted (do not do it in the house) into a jar and left for a couple of hours to let the gas settle, and then put it through an old badger 150 airbrush.
Cheers,
Mike.

 

[MikeC]

Update,
The assembly work on the gun is now complete. This will be primed and top coated before the L/R so that I do not have the same shade of green. Just got to finish the L/R now.
Pics of final assembly...




And finally the trigger mechanism.

Will go over the model again to check before priming for any misses....
Cheers,
Mike.

 

[SimonT]

Hi Mike,

cleaning up mould lines on white metal is one of my personal hates - there always seems to be at least one in hiding until the paint goes on

Hope you don't mind a heads up on some that I've spotted



Looking forward to seeing the Landrover

 

[scottie3158]

Hi Mike looking very nice. I'm not sure it's a long time since I worked on them but should there be a hand loop under the muzzle?

 

[MikeC]

Hi Mike,

cleaning up mould lines on white metal is one of my personal hates - there always seems to be at least one in hiding until the paint goes on

Hope you don't mind a heads up on some that I've spotted

View attachment 372935View attachment 372936

Looking forward to seeing the Landrover

Hello Simon,
Many thanks for doing the job for me, I went over the pics last night and picked out the same areas. And today a swift rub with a files has eleiminated them all plus adressed the venturi opening handle slide where the seam between the two brass parts are, they were filled out with c/a so will now flow in some liquid filler.
Cheers
Mike.

 

[MikeC]

Hi Mike looking very nice. I'm not sure it's a long time since I worked on them but should there be a hand loop under the muzzle?

Scottie,
Join the club, I wracked my memory over this one, and there is so little info out there on the WOMBAT, but take the MOWBAT and it's there in spades. But down to your question. There is a bar that passes through below the muzzle, the earlier pics show this in place. This could be removed with a pull down sprung button where you slid the bar through and halfway the bar pushed down the button and the inner part went into a groove to stop it sliding about. Also there is a strap that the No.1 uses to brace themselves, this in most cases was removed or wrapped aroun the barrel just in front of the venturi, this will be added once the painting is complete.
And guess what else I found hidden in the stash and totally forgotten.....

Looks like one for the artillery class at the nationals...
Cheers,
Mike (aka Busy from Luton)

 

[Jim R]

Hi Mike
Looks great. I would not have seen any mould lines if my life had depended on it - Simon has 'eagle eyes'. He is good to have around
Can you use ordinary model primer, like Stynylrez, on white metal? It says it's ok for plastic, resin, metal etc.
Jim

 

[MikeC]

Hi Mike
Looks great. I would not have seen any mould lines if my life had depended on it - Simon has 'eagle eyes'. He is good to have around
Can you use ordinary model primer, like Stynylrez, on white metal? It says it's ok for plastic, resin, metal etc.
Jim

Hello Jim,
Never used it myself but if it says its ok then try on some scrap first. Another I use is Ultimate Primer which covers well.
As for the mould lines, I know, the man is cursed - that's what happens when you give yourself to the dark side...
Mike.

 

[SimonT]

Cursed I be, arggghhh

I can’t help it - it‘s what happens after you spend nearly thirty years playing spot the difference with engineers scribbled drawings, stuff just jumps straight out at me

 

[Jim R]

Hi Simon
Your 'eagle eyes' have helped me more than once
Jim

 

[MikeC]

Cursed I be, arggghhh

I can’t help it - it‘s what happens after you spend nearly thirty years playing spot the difference with engineers scribbled drawings, stuff just jumps straight out at me

I know the feeling, I do the same with loaded trucks even though I am now retired...
Mike.

 

[MikeC]

Update,
Plodding along with the L/R.
Have connected the rear bumper with the cast towing eye, still the opening catch to add, also the hinges for the tailgate have yet to be made up and added...

...some straightening up of the two foot steps good job they are tacked in place.

I used the white metal components from the WOMBAT kit, but the gear lever did not survive, so this was changed for a copper wire substitute. You can also see the new door catch and the white metal mirrors.

I also added the switches on the dash along with new indicator and light levers each side of the steering column...

Finally you can see the new mirror arms, yet to be fixed in place, the inside door catches and the antennae mount. The seats are in the process of being covered with tissue to give them some texture. Now getting close to finishing the build...
Cheers,
Mike.

 

[minitnkr]

Fantastic details. PaulE

 

[Jim R]

Hi Mike
Looking really good
Jim

 

[scottie3158]

Mike.
Great work as always, how do you form the round end on the gear stick?

 

[grumpa]

Really?



Seriously though.
Absolutely LOVE it!!

Jim

 

[MikeC]

PaulE,
Jim
Jim R
Scottie,
Many thanks for the comments, as always very welcome.
Scottie, Melt some of the 'lead' and let it drip into water where it forms a ball. you can also do this with solder.
Mike.

 

[scottie3158]

PaulE,
Jim
Jim R
Scottie,
Many thanks for the comments, as always very welcome.
Scottie, Melt some of the 'lead' and let it drip into water where it forms a ball. you can also do this with solder.
Mike.

Thanks I will give that a go

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Brilliant detailing Mike.