Meanwhile, somewhere in Europe

[GerryW]

I've stalled a bit on the road surface - seems that no matter what I try, it just breaks up (reminds me of the roads about here) - think that I'm going to have to strip it right off and start it all over again from the start. It's got the latest attempt drying out, and if that doesn't work, will be 'cutting my losses', stripping it off, crumbling any lumps and starting from scratch - all included in the learning process!

 

[GerryW]

Looking good Gerry.
The only thing I would say about water is SEAL THE BASE AND SIDES WELL

Hopefully I'll be able to learn the 'varnish and clear mastic' method, rather than using resin, as it's a 'mountain stream', so will need some white/still/flowing water. Got about half a tin of interior varnish, (but can't remember if it's a satin finish - but also got about half a litre plus of yacht varnish, which might work - bought that to do a trailer) plus about a tube and a half of clear mastic (again, bought for the trailer)

 

[adt70hk]

Gerry

That's coming on very nicely indeed.

Hope you manage to work out the issue with the road.

All the best.

Andrew

 

[GerryW]

Gerry

That's coming on very nicely indeed.

Hope you manage to work out the issue with the road.

All the best.

Andrew

Oh, I'll work it out, even if I have to place each grain into its place with tweezers!
It's just so frustrating to think that I've finally figured it out, only for it to crumble the next time I touch it to try to do the next stage/tidy it up. Though to be fair, it's the first time that I've tried using this stuff, so a steep learning curve.

 

[Isitme]

Gerry,
Just caught up to your build, and that is really impressive. Good old Hy-Cote primer sorts out all the faults and makes them obvious. Have a look at Delux Products (deluxmaterials.co.uk) for your water needs. And for your groundwork try ChinChilla sand from ebay, a lot finer than sand.
Looking forward to more.
Mike.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Gerry
That is looking very good. I'd never have considered wood as suitable for rock, but it really works well. Shame about the road problems - sorry I can't offer any advice. I'm sure you'll sort it.
Jim

 

[GerryW]

Gerry,
Just caught up to your build, and that is really impressive. Good old Hy-Cote primer sorts out all the faults and makes them obvious. Have a look at Delux Products (deluxmaterials.co.uk) for your water needs. And for your groundwork try ChinChilla sand from ebay, a lot finer than sand.
Looking forward to more.
Mike.

Those delux products look good (in their hands) just wondering what sort of mess I'd make with them!

Hi Gerry
That is looking very good. I'd never have considered wood as suitable for rock, but it really works well. Shame about the road problems - sorry I can't offer any advice. I'm sure you'll sort it.
Jim

Hi Jim, the 'wood as rocks' thing, as I said earlier, goes back years (well before I started back in the '70s) so can't take any credit for that. It's often just finding a 'suitable' lump of wood (or bark) - I've just been picking up likely looking bits when out walking.
Oak bark is 'good' for slabs of sedimentary rock that have broken off a cliff face, old weathered wood gives the 'seams' of sedimentary formations (and if 'lucky' it's just breaking down in the squares, giving even more 'weathered' appearance), and a bent bit will give a better effect than a straight bit will. Cork gives great 'igneous' rocks, as there's no grain to show through. Will say that it's best to give it a good spray of fly spray or similar to kill off any bugs that might be in it before taking it indoors though!
Oh, I'll sort the road - eventually! Don't think that I've ever let something like this 'beat' me (think that I must be stubborn!)

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Gerry, the only other thing better than your rocks is Scotch on the rocks.
Might I add the using the old method of fine sand and concrete cement mixture for your road.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[GerryW]

Hi Gerry, the only other thing better than your rocks is Scotch on the rocks.
Might I add the using the old method of fine sand and concrete cement mixture for your road.

Cheers,
Richard

Might try that Richard - though checking what I did last night, I might have solved it - made a very wet 'paste' of PVA/water and ground which could be poured - almost 'self-levelling concrete' style, but still got to see if I can do anything to the finish.

 

[rtfoe]

Might try that Richard - though checking what I did last night, I might have solved it - made a very wet 'paste' of PVA/water and ground which could be poured - almost 'self-levelling concrete' style, but still got to see if I can do anything to the finish.

Forgot to mention that you may need to score or roughen the surface before application for a grip as PVA shrinks. As long as the PVA ratio is enough to bond the sand then the problem of it disintegrating would lessen. Also with PVA you will need to apply in thinner layers so that it won't crack unlike concrete.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Mini Me]

Hi Gerry, take a moment and surf you tube for model railroad scenery tutorials.........I was on there yesterday and they have all the answers to your questions. Cheers.........scotch on the rocks??.....make mine a double! Rick H.

 

[scottie3158]

Gerry,
Looking good mate.

 

[GerryW]

Hi Gerry, take a moment and surf you tube for model railroad scenery tutorials.........I was on there yesterday and they have all the answers to your questions. Cheers.........scotch on the rocks??.....make mine a double! Rick H.

I've been watching a lot of those - some of them really throw a lot of money at just the scenery, though comparing it to how much the track and rolling stock cost, it's probably not that much!
Prefer my scotch neat, (maybe with a little water) but then, it's usually single malt

Gerry,
Looking good mate.

Thanks, just pulling my hair out about this road - got attempt number 4 drying at the moment (a lot thinner layer this time) if this doesn't work, then it'll be back to the sandpaper method of 'roadmaking'!

 

[GerryW]

Forgot to mention that you may need to score or roughen the surface before application for a grip as PVA shrinks. As long as the PVA ratio is enough to bond the sand then the problem of it disintegrating would lessen. Also with PVA you will need to apply in thinner layers so that it won't crack unlike concrete.

Cheers,
Richard

Yes, it cracked and gave a really 'potholed' look, so scraped off and started from scratch again. Mind you, it's given me a way of creating modern roads!

 

[JR]

Gerry remind us what the base material is that you are trying to lay the road on please.

 

[GerryW]

Gerry remind us what the base material is that you are trying to lay the road on please.

Don't think that it was the base that was the trouble, as it seemed to stick down fine when I could get the pva to penetrate, and getting towards the end, think that I was trying to hurry and put too much down at once.

Started by just using papermache (mix of pva/water/tissue), allowed to dry completely so was solid, but have now cut that out, and replaced with corrugated cardboard + layer of pva/tissue and the texture pressed in while everything is wet. Stuck fine in the corners - where I could get a thick coat of pva mix, so I'm thinking it was lack of penetration, rather than anything else.

Of course, could easily be the material that I'm using for the road, which is coffee grounds only as they're of a slightly differing mix of size which gives an interesting texture - closer than sand, which tends to be of fairly uniform size grains (dried - wondering if it'd 'take' the glue better if it were wet?).

 

[minitnkr]

I use a 4oz. 50/50 mix of PVA/water w/couple drops dish washing liquid & eyedropper full of 90% alcohol. Brush/pour this onto road area & let set for a couple minutes and then sprinkle a layer of aggregate over it. Let dry overnight & then whisk away excess w/ sable makeup brush. Add additional aggregate onto berms & center to taste then douse w/alky before adding PVA mix w/eyedropper to affix. PaulE

 

[GerryW]

Think it's sorted - just gone to it, and applied 2nd layer without too many problems, added to the 'mix' some acrylic paint which seemed to make it flow better (ok, so I've got a 'lamp black' road at the moment but when I can get to the shops, that can be changed!)

 

[GerryW]

I use a 4oz. 50/50 mix of PVA/water w/couple drops dish washing liquid & eyedropper full of 90% alcohol. Brush/pour this onto road area & let set for a couple minutes and then sprinkle a layer of aggregate over it. Let dry overnight & then whisk away excess w/ sable makeup brush. Add additional aggregate onto berms & center to taste & eyedropper PVA to affix it.

Think that that was the problem - wasn't getting the excess off & too thin a mix

 

[spanner570]

Looking excellent and a cracking idea, Gerry.
Just be aware of complicating things. Simple is good.

Ron