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- Ron
Thanks Dave, that's why I thought it unusually big for a 1/144 scale!
Revell 1/144 Trinity House 'South Goodwin' Lightship
- Thread starter spanner570
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Thanks Dave, that's why I thought it unusually big for a 1/144 scale!
gothicgeek
SMF Supporter
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Ron,
Count me in. I can always count on you building something different.
Count me in. I can always count on you building something different.
boatman
SMF Supporter
YEA i had that shell wellder kit an it was a very detailed kit if i remember rightly but that was yonks ago when i was young an it got deep sixed by me floating it on a pond an then puttin inside it a little demon bangar an by gum they made a good bang an it blew the deck off an she sank into the depths all great fun as i had been watching gerry andersons thunderbirds with all the exspolions now to hear i sank a clissic kit oh what a pity shame on me
chris
chris
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- Bob
Interesting Ron, theres a light ship docked in Cardiff bay.
Before the ships were automated, then replaced by fancy beacons, the lightships were manned, by up to 11 men on a monthly tour schedule, it must have been a very wearing period - not going anywhere & the endless routine of tending to the light. Being anchored in heavy seas is no fun, as the ship jerks on the anchoring chain it produces a really unpleasant random movement. In my experience, most masters would up anchor & steam slowly into the seas - it prevented damage, was more comfortable, and removed the risk of dragging your anchor ( not good ). The Trinity House lightships had multiple anchor points on the seabed to prevent dragging - of course these were 'dumb' ships - no propeller!
I didn't know that!
Pete
.
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Nice to have you folks along for the tow. As we will be anchored up with no engine and bored stiff, well behaved pets, including parrots, are allowed.
Finally opened the box and made a start on this, proper like!
Bad start. I noticed the inner bag had a bit of sticky tape on one corner. On checking the part count, there were 8 pieces missing. Luckily, I should be able the scratch replacements.
It really does suck when some eBay sellers don't tell the truth about the kits they sell. A Merry Christmas to the ba****d who sold me this one!
First job is to drill out all the solid plastic portholes, both on the hull and superstructure, ready for some 'Glass'.
The rudder is moulded on.
Off we go....
Cheers.
Ron
Finally opened the box and made a start on this, proper like!
Bad start. I noticed the inner bag had a bit of sticky tape on one corner. On checking the part count, there were 8 pieces missing. Luckily, I should be able the scratch replacements.
It really does suck when some eBay sellers don't tell the truth about the kits they sell. A Merry Christmas to the ba****d who sold me this one!
First job is to drill out all the solid plastic portholes, both on the hull and superstructure, ready for some 'Glass'.
The rudder is moulded on.
Off we go....
Cheers.
Ron
Yeah! That's nearly as bad as those folks what post stuff to you without putting enough stamps on!
That's dreadful Ron, I was tempted to go for that kit myself. I also fell for the same trick with my Benledi, two pieces short and no mention in the sales blurb and then to put the kit in a heat sealed bag (obviously a trader). Fortunately they also won't be too difficult to scratch build. I have since bought the Revell Pinta which fortunately is A1. I am buying no more from ebay, will only buy brand new in future! I also feel a bit guilty for having seen that one for you, certainly won't post links to any other kits I see.
Nevertheless, looking forward to your build.
Tony
Nevertheless, looking forward to your build.
Tony
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Tony, don't give it another thought. You weren't to know about the missing parts, any more than me. The only person who did was the seller. Please continue to post any links that might be of interest to me. Unless of course you wish to keep your find to yourself 
Yours.
Uffa Fox
Yours.
Uffa Fox
The only other option is to check the item carefully when it arrives, and raise a complaint straight away if it’s not as described!
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More progress.
After joining the hull halves, I dry fitted the main deck. Spot on! This slips in from the stern - ....... and then snaps in all around. Easy enough to remove after the trial fit!
I find with these elderly kits, the large bits of plastic are usually an excellent fit. The smaller ones on the sprues usually need major work before gluing. Some parts are barely recognizable, but we are modellers, so a stack of cleaning up and fitting is quite acceptable, to me anyway.
I don't usually prime my models, but with such a large surface as this, I decided to brush on a coat to the hull and main deck.
I've also brushed on a first coat of white around the inner hull/ deck.
With the exception of the large windlass, all the other detail is moulded into the plastic.
Nice hull detail. More than enough rivets to keep the 'rivet counters' on here happy......
Next, I'll fit the porthole glass, paint and permanently fix the main deck.
Cheers.
Ken Goodwin
After joining the hull halves, I dry fitted the main deck. Spot on! This slips in from the stern -
....... and then snaps in all around. Easy enough to remove after the trial fit!I find with these elderly kits, the large bits of plastic are usually an excellent fit. The smaller ones on the sprues usually need major work before gluing. Some parts are barely recognizable, but we are modellers, so a stack of cleaning up and fitting is quite acceptable, to me anyway.
I don't usually prime my models, but with such a large surface as this, I decided to brush on a coat to the hull and main deck.
I've also brushed on a first coat of white around the inner hull/ deck.
With the exception of the large windlass, all the other detail is moulded into the plastic.
Nice hull detail. More than enough rivets to keep the 'rivet counters' on here happy......
Next, I'll fit the porthole glass, paint and permanently fix the main deck.
Cheers.
Ken Goodwin
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The detail moulding in the hull looks good. I have also noticed that on some kits the large parts are excellent clean, flash free parts and the kit is let down by the smaller parts.
Following with interest
Tony
Following with interest
Tony
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi Ron
Lightship is looking excellent. Nice detail and smooth paint job from the master of the hairy stick.
Jim
That was exactly what I found with my Calypso model.
Lightship is looking excellent. Nice detail and smooth paint job from the master of the hairy stick.
Jim
Watching with interrest. I'm sure I built a lightship as a lad. Seem to recall it being 1/72 scale though....?
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Thanks boys. Glad you approve thus far.
Before I fit the 'glass' into the portholes I drilled out earlier, I need to paint the hull.
First coat of red brushed on. I don't use masking tape, preferring to mark around the hull at the waterline with a pencil and paint freehand, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that Revell have kindly moulded in a waterline line.
As you can see, at this stage of the painting I'm not fussed about going over any demarcation lines. With such a large area of plastic to cover, neatness goes out of the window. I needed to get the paint on reet sharpish to avoid a dry edge and ridges.
Brush painting tip....Just slosh the paint on and quickly lay it off bottom to top, not top to bottom. If you do the latter, you will have paint runs around the top inside edge of the hull.
A better look at the excellent hull plate detail - and the drilled out port hole holes!
Once this is dry, I can add a second coat and then see if a third is required.
Cheers.
Able Seaman Staynes
Before I fit the 'glass' into the portholes I drilled out earlier, I need to paint the hull.
First coat of red brushed on. I don't use masking tape, preferring to mark around the hull at the waterline with a pencil and paint freehand, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that Revell have kindly moulded in a waterline line.
As you can see, at this stage of the painting I'm not fussed about going over any demarcation lines. With such a large area of plastic to cover, neatness goes out of the window. I needed to get the paint on reet sharpish to avoid a dry edge and ridges.
Brush painting tip....Just slosh the paint on and quickly lay it off bottom to top, not top to bottom. If you do the latter, you will have paint runs around the top inside edge of the hull.
A better look at the excellent hull plate detail - and the drilled out port hole holes!
Once this is dry, I can add a second coat and then see if a third is required.
Cheers.
Able Seaman Staynes
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