Wookie2486
SMF Supporter
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2018
- Messages
- 219
- Points
- 43
- First Name
- Martyn
Good start there scottie the engine looks brilliant.
Marty
Marty
That would be great Paul, PM sent.Thanks Andy, I built that a while ago and have some pictures of the engine I built if they are of any use. I also have some pictures of the actual vehicle.
Thanks Marty.Good start there scottie the engine looks brilliant.
Marty
Thanks John, managed to find the original piece today so that has been fitted.If you hadn't mentioned the scratched piece Paul we'd have been none the wiser if it had been painted .
Engine suitably weathered as well .
PM Sent mate.That would be great Paul, PM sent.
Andy.
That certainly sounds like AFV Club alrightThey have tried to make it very accurate but this means in a lot of places the glue points are tiny making for very weak locations.
I’ve said it before, but American OD was more of a greenish-brownish colour than actual green, and was darker than people usually think it is. Part of the problem with its darkness is that in the late 1960s, OD suddenly became lighter in shade than before due to an error in the specifications, which many modellers aren’t aware of.This question has been asked before but I have used the Olive Drab that is called for in the instructions, but it always seems to dark to me. When I see other peoples US builds they always seem "Greener and lighter" just wondering what you guys use.
Thanks Jakko, I knew it was a dark greeny brown as mine is. Just finished builds I see always seem greener and lighter. It must be poetic licence lol.That certainly sounds like AFV Club alright
I’ve said it before, but American OD was more of a greenish-brownish colour than actual green, and was darker than people usually think it is. Part of the problem with its darkness is that in the late 1960s, OD suddenly became lighter in shade than before due to an error in the specifications, which many modellers aren’t aware of.
Gunze-Sangyo H52 OD is apparently a good colour to use straight from the bottle, according to a test by Steve Zaloga in an old issue of Military Modelling. Other good choices are AK RC023, Hataka 065, Mr. Paint 138 or equal parts Tamiya XF-51 and XF-62.
Photos are very misleading. I painted my M4A3 HVSS with Tamiya OD and added a black wash over it, which made it much darker than I would like. However, in the photos I took of it, it looks about as dark as before I added the wash, both on the iPad I took them with and on my Mac — both of which have their screen brightness set pretty low, by the way.Just finished builds I see always seem greener and lighter. It must be poetic licence lol.
It ain't rubbish Jim......if I use out of the bottle Panzer Grey on a 1/87 scale vehicle it looks Black when dry. Monogram did a scale color ref. book years ago on how the colors should be lightened in scale to represent a given distance from which the subject is viewed.
I have used this ref. as a guide for nearly 30 years.........very satisfied with the results. Rick H.
Rick, could you expand on that? I've found it to be true in our scale, don't know about larger. PaulE
Here is a page I saved for reference...........If Scottie does not mind.View attachment 408279
Nice start Paul.
Thank you Steve, and the very best for you and yours.Stunning work on the chassis and engine. Lovely to see the master at work
A very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.
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