Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[Jakko]

You can use most paints over most others with no problems, whether different types (acrylic, enamel etc.) or different brands. If in doubt about anything paint-related, you can always do a quick test — in this case, paint a piece of leftover sprue with the paint you want underneath, and when it’s dried, put the second over it and see what happens.

The main thing to keep in mind is not to mix paints of different types: don’t mix acrylic and enamel paints to make up a colour you need, for example, as it’s unlikely to go well. Different brands of the same type of paint can normally be mixed with no problems, though some may cause trouble — again, if in doubt, just try mixing one drop of each on a palette (like a glazed wall tile, the inside of an old jar lid, etc.).

 

[arb65912]

Tamiya primer then Vallejo paint….Definitely yes! Done that hundreds of times. The grey Tamiya primer is far better than the white primer though. It adheres better.
Acrylic paint over non acrylic primer….again definitely yes.

I have used almost everything paint wise over almost everything else primer wise over the years with no issues as to compatibility. As long as the primer is allowed to properly dry then the overlying paint does not react.

Thank for the immediate response, Tim!
As so far I see all my questions posted here are answered.

Accordingly, to your advise, Stynylrez Acrylic Primer will live happily with Vallejo acrylic paint, correct @Tim Marlow ?

I will have more questions as a time goes by.

 

[arb65912]

You can use most paints over most others with no problems, whether different types (acrylic, enamel etc.) or different brands. If in doubt about anything paint-related, you can always do a quick test — in this case, paint a piece of leftover sprue with the paint you want underneath, and when it’s dried, put the second over it and see what happens.

The main thing to keep in mind is not to mix paints of different types: don’t mix acrylic and enamel paints to make up a colour you need, for example, as it’s unlikely to go well. Different brands of the same type of paint can normally be mixed with no problems, though some may cause trouble — again, if in doubt, just try mixing one drop of each on a palette (like a glazed wall tile, the inside of an old jar lid, etc.).

Thank you very much for the response, Jakko.
I know, there are few guys here I can rely on for advice.

I use make a test before I apply on underside of the fuselage, I will sand it as it was outside, put primer and then base coat before I dare to do that on the outside (visible) part of the model.

About mixing paints, I thought of it before you answered and I will only mix the same type and brand, much safer.

 

[Jakko]

A good guide is that if paints smell alike, you can probably mix them without anything unexpected happening. Don’t be afraid to experiment, though — like I said, mixing a few drops to try out will give you a yes-or-no answer quickly and simply.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thank for the immediate response, Tim!
As so far I see all my questions posted here are answered.

Accordingly, to your advise, Stynylrez Acrylic Primer will live happily with Vallejo acrylic paint, correct @Tim Marlow ?

I will have more questions as a time goes by.

Yes to that. Quite a few on here use stynylrez primer.

 

[arb65912]

Yes to that. Quite a few on here use stynylrez primer.

Quite a few, you mean many use it here , correct? I am sorry that is my Polish English.

 

[arb65912]

Here is the broken canopy, looked everywhere but no luck, I guess I will just sand and polish it and that will be it.

And the ugliest cockpit painting ever done.

These two facts above still make my progress worth the effort as if you looked in initial post, I am building the SU-27 for X-Plane flight simulator so cockpit does not have to be good and broken canopy still has it's shape so for my purposes it is all good.

I have a question about canopy and corresponding parts, I can not figure out how to glue them together positions wise.
I will take some pictures and post, maybe you can help me.

 

[arb65912]

I forgot to ask, what do I do to polish the canopy, what sandpaper grit and what later. I know it will be cracks seen but I still want it shiny.

 

[Jakko]

I’ve never tried it, but very fine sandpaper to start with and then polishing compound, I would say. Toothpaste will probably work too, that’s also actually a polishing compound.

 

[rtfoe]

Here is the news, I broke the canopy.......
So at this point I will not worry about cockpit look which I messed up to start with and just concentrate on the outside.
Learned something the VERY hard way, just life.

Somone might ask, how the h...l did you do it?
Well, I was just dry fitting it and it seemed to be too narrow, so I tried to open it up.
The plastic parts from the sprue are much more flexible and can be deformed if overbend carefully so I thought the same will happen with the canopy. I was wrong!

Apologise for coming in this late, Andzrej. Now that you mentioned it a friend of mine also built the Trumpeter Sukoi 27 32nd scale and mentioned that the canopy was too narrow as well so he posed it open.
How do you pronounce your name?

Cheers,
Richard

 

[stillp]

I forgot to ask, what do I do to polish the canopy, what sandpaper grit and what later. I know it will be cracks seen but I still want it shiny.

I'd start with 400 or 600 grit, used wet, work up to 2000 or the finest you have, then use polishing compound or metal polish.
Pete

 

[arb65912]

I’ve never tried it, but very fine sandpaper to start with and then polishing compound, I would say. Toothpaste will probably work too, that’s also actually a polishing compound.

Thanks, Jakko.
I see other replies too. I will try toothpaste, just for curiosity and if not good enough for shininess, I will use compound.

 

[arb65912]

Apologise for coming in this late, Andzrej. Now that you mentioned it a friend of mine also built the Trumpeter Sukoi 27 32nd scale and mentioned that the canopy was too narrow as well so he posed it open.
How do you pronounce your name?

Cheers,
Richard

Hello, Richard.
Better late than never, right? Thank you for the reply.

Is there a thread here with your friend's build so I could take a peek?

Yes, it seems to be too narrow, so I broke it....

My name is Polish so probably the close pronunciation would be "and-jay" , second close would be Russian Andrej and in my airplane places I just go by AJ, which is much easier as very few can spell or pronounce my real first name.

 

[arb65912]

I'd start with 400 or 600 grit, used wet, work up to 2000 or the finest you have, then use polishing compound or metal polish.
Pete

Thanks, Peter.
I will try that for sure.
Could you post a link for that polishing compound or metal polish?
With so many different sources available, I do not want to pick the "bad" one.

 

[stillp]

AJ, I don't know what polishing compounds are available in New Jersey, but Tamiya sell one that's often used. Also any compound used for polishing scratches out of automobile paint should work.
Pete

 

[Tim Marlow]

For canopy (and other clear parts) polishing I tend to use these…

Abrasive Pads Micro Finishing Cloth 2000

50 mm x 50 mm - 1 pad of each grit 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000

www.scalemodelshop.co.uk

I then finish by working through these…

The final finish looks absolutely like glass.

 

[arb65912]

AJ, I don't know what polishing compounds are available in New Jersey, but Tamiya sell one that's often used. Also any compound used for polishing scratches out of automobile paint should work.
Pete

Thank you, Pete!

 

[arb65912]

For canopy (and other clear parts) polishing I tend to use these…

Abrasive Pads Micro Finishing Cloth 2000

50 mm x 50 mm - 1 pad of each grit 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000

www.scalemodelshop.co.uk

I then finish by working through these…

The final finish looks absolutely like glass.

Thanks, Tim!
I am sure it will look like glass, the broken one. But as I said above, it is totally OK.

 

[rtfoe]

Hello, Richard.
Better late than never, right? Thank you for the reply.

Is there a thread here with your friend's build so I could take a peek?

Yes, it seems to be too narrow, so I broke it....

My name is Polish so probably the close pronunciation would be "and-jay" , second close would be Russian Andrej and in my airplane places I just go by AJ, which is much easier as very few can spell or pronounce my real first name.

Hi Andzrej or AJ, unfortunately my friend isn't in this forum but our local group chat and with housekeeping on my phone I don't save any of the images. I could check his FB but that's another minefield. He didn't actually break the canopy but had hairline fractures along the top of the canopy while trying to fit.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[arb65912]

Hi Andzrej or AJ, unfortunately my friend isn't in this forum but our local group chat and with housekeeping on my phone I don't save any of the images. I could check his FB but that's another minefield. He didn't actually break the canopy but had hairline fractures along the top of the canopy while trying to fit.

Cheers,
Richard

Hi Richard.
Thank you and no problem, if you can find him on FB, great, if not, I will ask things here.
So far, I get answers for anything I ask about, sometimes even few. Love the response rate in these forums and friendliness.
I assume that hairline fractures are not deep so one can fix with sanding and polishing which I will be doing as well for my broken canopy.

As far as canopy positioning, I am not sure where it should be anyway, even with the fuselage side, most likely.
I will investigate and might ask here as well.