What's on the bench 2022

[David Lovell]

Crapintheback of Dragon's Stug IV Late Version

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Fantastic work Steve attention to detail is unbelievable well done buddy. Dave

 

[Mini Me]

Have you agree with that..... Just debating on whether or not I need to a few lighter flecks to break it up a bit.... Won't rush on that front..... But either way it will be finished by the weekend....

ATB.

Andrew

Not a bad idea....it would tend to define it a bit more and add interest as well.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Have you agree with that..... Just debating on whether or not I need to a few lighter flecks to break it up a bit.... Won't rush on that front..... But either way it will be finished by the weekend....

ATB.

Andrew

Hi Andrew. Your model, your rules mate, but I would look at some pictures for inspiration and get some highlights on it if nothing else. It will really pop then.

 

[Steve Jones]

Fantastic work Steve attention to detail is unbelievable well done buddy. Dave

Cheers David. Many thanks. Really appreciate it.

 

[Jakko]

that insight keeps me at ease not to get bent over non-perfection.

It was just Shep Paine’s gizmology philosophy in different words Though I don’t quite subscribe to that: I aim for building what is actually there, as far as I’m able to. Where my ability (or will) to actually make it fails, I shift to making something that at least looks plausible. For my Sd.Kfz. 7, for example, that’s the solution I’m going to use for some of the plumbing I still need to add, because I simply can’t work out where a lot of it goes/comes from. So I intend to build the side I can see and then just stick the other end of the cabling out of sight somewhere.

In a similar vein, I think, is what you pointed out in your own build, about varying (contradictive) photo references and in some cases dubious restoration. (I'd have just used that conical kit horn if the tweezers hadn't had different ideas and fed it to the carpet monster.)

By now I’m not convinced anymore that the conical horn is wrong as such … The dubious restoration part comes in there, because a lot of the pictures in the Wings & Wheels Publications book seem to be of one of those — including the horn. But I’ll go with them in this regard, for want of better information. Like I said before, you at least can close the engine covers to largely hide these kinds of things

But it is quite huge / probably out of scale compared to the one you used on yours.

As if mine looks anything like the one in the pictures of the restored vehicle, other than being round

 

[adt70hk]

Not a bad idea....it would tend to define it a bit more and add interest as well.

Hi Andrew. Your model, your rules mate, but I would look at some pictures for inspiration and get some highlights on it if nothing else. It will really pop then.

Thanks guys.

Had a quick look online at creeper, vine things and as I expected there's a myriad of varieties.....everything from very monotone greens, reds and even a purple one, to ones with some nice gradual variations, to complete extremes on the same plant as I've seen before.

So in short, pretty much anything goes. I'll therefore add some highlights later this week.

ATB.

Andrew

 

[Jack L]

Crapintheback of Dragon's Stug IV Late Version

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Amazing work Steve. Been enjoying following this on youtube!

 

[Steve Jones]

Many thanks for the support Jack. The videos are stacking up. Just haven't had the time to upload them

 

[RonGlass]

It was just Shep Paine’s gizmology philosophy in different words Though I don’t quite subscribe to that: I aim for building what is actually there, as far as I’m able to. Where my ability (or will) to actually make it fails, I shift to making something that at least looks plausible. For my Sd.Kfz. 7, for example, that’s the solution I’m going to use for some of the plumbing I still need to add, because I simply can’t work out where a lot of it goes/comes from. So I intend to build the side I can see and then just stick the other end of the cabling out of sight somewhere.
One thing I couldn't work out was where the distributor is located for the plug wires. I see where they are on the right hand side of the engine where they exit a cover through an elbow conduit stub. I see what I believe is the distributor, seems rather obvious on the kit but couldn't find any engine photos that clise-up. That area is obscured by the air filters. Granted, I installed hoses and control rods before the whim of plug wires occured to me. So adding thatt would be very difficult for me now, shame.

By now I’m not convinced anymore that the conical horn is wrong as such … The dubious restoration part comes in there, because a lot of the pictures in the Wings & Wheels Publications book seem to be of one of those — including the horn. But I’ll go with them in this regard, for want of better information. Like I said before, you at least can close the engine covers to largely hide these kinds of things


As if mine looks anything like the one in the pictures of the restored vehicle, other than being round

 

[RonGlass]

Ooops sorry I made a blunder of my reply. Meshed in there is my explaining that I couldn't work out adding plug wires

 

[Jakko]

One thing I couldn't work out was where the distributor is located for the plug wires. I see where they are on the right hand side of the engine where they exit a cover through an elbow conduit stub.

I had the same problem, but found photos that show how it fits. Basically, there is a cover plate over the spark plugs like you said, but Dragon missed a piece of curved pipe that sits in the middle of it.



This is from the Wings & Wheels book, showing the restored vehicle that I think took a few shortcuts. One of those is visible here: per a factory photograph of the engine (that I found in Spielberger’s Militärfahrzeuge von Krauss-Maffei bis 1945) all the spark plug leads should be inside a larger hose rather than hanging loose like here.

 

[RonGlass]

Thank You Jakko !

 

[adt70hk]

Not a bad idea....it would tend to define it a bit more and add interest as well.

Hi Andrew. Your model, your rules mate, but I would look at some pictures for inspiration and get some highlights on it if nothing else. It will really pop then.

Hi both,

So it turns out the creeper thingy hadn't completely dried out when I took the picture and is lightened up considerably in the past day or so....

 

[Tim Marlow]

Looks better Andrew, but to my eye it could still carry a highlight dry brush to add more life to the ivy. Mind you, photographs don’t always tell the whole story so as before, your model, your rules buddy.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

I had to make sure it worked properly in case it had to be sent back......



It's VERY easy to set up, although I deliberately did it at work where there are lots of young people to help an old dinosaur if required.
Carefully following the instructions I first printed the test file they supplied, which is called ROOK. I was expecting a Warhammer-type crow but this is what came out...



Do not adjust your phone or PC ,it prints upside down.
In this method of 3D printing the build plate moves up and away from the print screen by 0.05mm every time a layer is printed.
Another reason for building this at work is that they have the wash and cure station , which I haven't bought yet (it's another £130....).
Here are the finished articles, having been washed for 20 mins in IPA and then cured for 20mins in UV.


As you can see, even in my not brilliant photo, the layers are not at all visible .
There was no support structure to remove from these files- but that is because they have been especially designed with overhang angles that don't require support, in order to show off the printers to maximum effect. If you look inside you can see a spiral stair and a helix , and these are things moulding just can't do in one piece.
I will print something more relevant to our hobby next, and with support to demonstrate to the uninitiated.
I have been using this technology for nearly twenty years at work and for a long time it was crazily expensive . But I have always believed the prices would come down eventually and not only have they but the quality has come up as well. Even 5 years ago a machine to build at this quality was around £6k!
This one cost £238....
Incidentally, I have no financial arrangement with the manufacturers!
So, I've said it before on this forum and I will say it again- there's no point in buying a 3D printer if you don't know what you will print with it. I have a professional reason for buying mine, although I will of course use it in my hobby. Also there is a lot of other stuff you need to know before you can get your money's worth out of it, if you don't love tinkering (I don't, by the way, which is why I have waited until now to buy one of my own).
So, I'm off to find something military to print.
cheers
Neil

 

[Mini Me]

Um, Sir......before you go, I have a question.......How are you going to get inside those "twin towers" to paint those lovely steps and other fine details etc?

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Um, Sir......before you go, I have a question.......How are you going to get inside those "twin towers" to paint those lovely steps and other fine details etc?

 

[Tim Marlow]

Um, Sir......before you go, I have a question.......How are you going to get inside those "twin towers" to paint those lovely steps and other fine details etc?

There’s always one isn’t there

 

[Mini Me]

yuk, yuk, yuk

 

[minitnkr]

Dip'em, they're chess pcs.