Zvezda 1/35 T-35

[Jakko]

the exposed edges of the plates were finished with a very course grit sandpaper to give the flame cut look.

That offhand comment now has me wondering whether these things were flame-cut, or if they used a guillotine at the time For some reason, flame-cutting feels very American to me.

Fitted these bits to either side of the main turret support structure. They look like some form of fuel or oil tank and have what appears to be a jack fitted to them.

I can’t find it just now in my documentation, but I seem to recall they are indeed fuel tanks, and the thing on the outside is definitely a jack.

Nice progress, this is quite a complex tank to build (I’ve got an unfinished ICM one sitting around) so not going overly fast probably isn’t only down to you taking your time

 

[Deleted member 7181]

That offhand comment now has me wondering whether these things were flame-cut, or if they used a guillotine at the time For some reason, flame-cutting feels very American to me.

You're much more likely to know than I am, but since I'm more concerned with trying new things than historical accuracy it was a good opportunity to try it out.

Certainly looks better than the mould line and flash anyway lol

 

[Deleted member 7181]

One question you probably could answer for me Jakko if you don't mind.

Am I right in thinking the "paint" on these was an all in one, applied straight onto the bare metal? I'm sure I've read that somewhere.

I want to try out some chipping on this one but don't want to be revealing a primer if they never had one. That's a detail too big for even me to fudge over!

 

[Mini Me]

Red Oxide Primer would be correct for interwar production and even into WW2 production. I have a photo in my collection of a KV-1 with what actually appears to be war time paint that is chipped to the bare metal (rusty now) and right next to it the (very old) topcoat is chipped down to the Red Oxide. If the Russians skipped the primer process for the sake of expediency it was probably later on in the conflict. I can post this if you would like to see it, but will not without your prior consent. Rules, you know. Rick H.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Hi Rick, a picture would be great thanks.

Glad I checked as I've definitely read it somewhere. Just proves you can't believe everything you see on the internet. Who'd have thought it lol

 

[Jakko]

You're much more likely to know than I am, but since I'm more concerned with trying new things than historical accuracy it was a good opportunity to try it out.

Certainly, and because I can’t really tell from the photos, would you say it succeeded? Because it sounds like a useful technique to keep in mind.

Am I right in thinking the "paint" on these was an all in one, applied straight onto the bare metal? I'm sure I've read that somewhere.

I’m afraid I don’t know, but I would think red lead primer would be underneath it, given that it was pretty much the norm for anything metal painted until, at a guess, the 1970s or so? Desperate wartime production might easily do without, of course, but the T-35 was built before the USSR got onto a wartime footing, so I doubt shortcuts like that would have been taken at the time.

I want to try out some chipping on this one but don't want to be revealing a primer if they never had one. That's a detail too big for even me to fudge over!

I’d say that’s probably because you do a lot of painting of real things, meaning this is something you’re knowledgeable about and so you try to get it “right” more than things you’re not as familiar with. Everybody does that in some ways

 

[Steve Jones]

Terrific update Andy. You certainly have been busy. Good luck with the chipping

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
The photo of the dry fit so far looks great. Neat, careful, accurate work. A most complicated looking tank.
Jim

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Jakko, I've searched to see where I'd read that but can't find it. Maybe it was a figment of my imagination! And yes, I think the effect worked ok. Seemed quicker than other methods I've seen of cutting with a blade. Will try and get a picture later.

Cheers Steve, I'll keep chanting "light coats, light coats, light coats"

Jim, I'm trying my best thanks. As Dave has already mentioned there's lots of detail that'll never get seen, not just in the running gear but all over. I'm still taking the time to clean it up and fit it though.

 

[rtfoe]

Andy, you don't need to only use a brush for the chipping...a tooth pick will do. Watch how it's done on a Fock Wulf Here. It's somewhere in the middle of the build and I'm surprised at how long he left it before scratching the paint off.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Richard. I've already seen that video as he's one of my favourites. If I can get my chipping to look even half as good as that I'll be a very happy bunny!

 

[Mini Me]

Here you go Andy. The area of interest is just below the tail light housing. Hope this is useful. Rick H.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Rick, definitely some primer there then, looks like it comes away with the paint though.

As if chipping one layer wasn't hard enough lol, I'd better go and watch Steve's tutorial again!

 

[Mini Me]

Bad or sloppy surface prep...war going on, that sort of thing

 

[Jakko]

As if chipping one layer wasn't hard enough lol, I'd better go and watch Steve's tutorial again!

This is why I prefer painting paint chips on: you can do the primer colour first, then smaller and (mostly) inside of that with the bare metal.

 

[stillp]

That offhand comment now has me wondering whether these things were flame-cut, or if they used a guillotine at the time For some reason, flame-cutting feels very American to me.

Surely they had to be flame-cut, you'd need a hell of a powerful guillotine to cut pieces of tank armour.
Pete

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Didn't get much time on this today as I had another scan to attend. The one where they give you an IV contrast liquid that instantly makes it feel like your whole body is on fire and gives the uncomfortable feeling that you've just wet yourself. Lovely

First the best picture I could get of the flame cut effect I tried. Bearing in mind the edge is around 10 x 1MM I doubt it'll ever be seen anyway.



I've added some more details to the lower hull and reached the point of no return. Once I add the next parts I'll never be able to reach some of this again so it got a splash of black primer and a patchy coat of colour



I also painted a few parts on the sprue that will be fitted tomorrow, like the plates that hold the side skirts, and the return rollers. You'd be hard pressed to know though as the colour is almost an exact match to the original plastic! I guess I could have just left it bare, but at least I'll know it's been done once I hide it away for ever...

 

[minitnkr]

Cut looks great. PaulE

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Paul.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Wheels



And more wheels



64 individual pieces, primed & painted with Mr Color, stuck together into their respective pairs then the tyres painted with AK 3 German Grey, which brushed very well indeed with a drop of retarder and a few drops of water.

I mentioned early on in this thread that the kit was damaged when I received it. One of the spindles for holding the return rollers was missing completely, so I made a near enough replacement from some 1mm rod & 2mm tube. It's a bit of a sloppy fit in the wheel but a blob of glue would see that right.



With the rollers in place I could then add these plates and the frame structure that will hold the side skirts. It was a bit like juggling spaghetti to get the 6 wheels, 3 plates and the frame into line all in one go, but it all seems pretty square now.



I also put the bogies together. These parts were all pre-painted on the sprue so there's a bit of cleaning and touching up to do once the glue sets. Spring units were primed in black and their ends sprayed with MrC. I mixed up a rusty colour from the few AK 3 colours I have and dry brushed it onto the springs, then painted their separating collar in green (Vallejo, so needs another coat). Apart from touching up the sprue scars I think they look quite nice, even close up. Pity they'll be virtually hidden behind the skirts but they'll get a bit of weathering once fitted.