Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[arb65912]

Today I was excited to try the AK Interactive Grey Surface Primer.

First, I thinned it about 1 to 3 with same brand thinner and it did not work, splatter.
I have no experience at all with setting up pressure and trigger position (Grex Tritium.TG7) .
I used 20 psi and trigger in the middle of the range and needle is 0.3 mm.

Then I tried straight from the bottle, and it worked, the results were only depending on my lack of skills.
Tomorrow I will try sanding and scratching to see how hard and resistant it is but for now, I love what I see.

 

[rtfoe]

Fractures are harder to rectify as they appear in the clear plastic and not on the surface so it's either to get a new canopy or live with the fracture. He had the canopy opened so it's less obvious if you want to look into the cockpit.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[arb65912]

Fractures are harder to rectify as they appear in the clear plastic and not on the surface so it's either to get a new canopy or live with the fracture. He had the canopy opened so it's less obvious if you want to look into the cockpit.

Cheers,
Richard

Thanks, Richard.
I was looking for new canopy, they used to make a replacement but not anymore as far as I could search.
I will leave with the fracture, see my original post, it will totally serve the purpose.
I will have canopy closed so it is another factor.
Cheers, AJ

 

[Jim R]

Hi AJ
Good progress and it sounds as if your enjoying things. The balance between air pressure, paint dilution and spraying distance is something that gets easier the more you practice. There are no hard and fast rules. Those Tamiya polishing compounds which Tim recommended are very good.
Jim

 

[arb65912]

Hi AJ
Good progress and it sounds as if your enjoying things. The balance between air pressure, paint dilution and spraying distance is something that gets easier the more you practice. There are no hard and fast rules. Those Tamiya polishing compounds which Tim recommended are very good.
Jim

Thanks, Jim.
Practice makes perfect they say so it will get better. I think that in addition to what you said, brands will act differently to some degree.
Yes, I do enjoy everything a lot!!!!

 

[Jim R]

brands will act differently to some degree

Very true. I have fallen into the trap of buying lots of different paint brands. I fell for the advertising
I wish I had found one I really liked and stuck with it to get used to how it behaves.

 

[arb65912]

Very true. I have fallen into the trap of buying lots of different paint brands. I fell for the advertising
I wish I had found one I really liked and stuck with it to get used to how it behaves.

Yes, it gives me a headache with all these available items, I try to read reviews, but some are simply contradictive.

 

[arb65912]

I wanted to show you the short video (not scale modeling but sure creating something) of my SU-27 B in so called Plane Maker.

This is the program associated with flight simulator that will allow developer to make Flight Model of the aircraft.
What you see is only made for the purpose of calculating all parameters for the Flight Model.
What you will see in simulator, is 3D model that will need to be made in software called Blender and exported so it goes together with whatever is created in mentioned above Plane Maker.

There will be tons of work on both programs, but it is a start.

Cheers, AJ

 

[arb65912]

Today, I also played with airbrush.
I prepared everything, ready to start.
I pressed the trigger on airbrush, NOTHING!
I am thinking, OK paint is too thick, I diluted, pressed the trigger...NOTHING, not even a drop, just air coming out.
I diluted even more, it did not look right, it was looking almost like water, tried again... NOTHING!

At this point I started thinking, what is happening, it cannot dry THAT fast.
I looked at the front and pulled the trigger (at the angle so I do not spray in my face in case it starts working.
I looked closely and what did I see?
Needle is NOT moving. BINGO.
When I was cleaning the needle last time, there is a little nut that needs to be tighten so the needle can be moved back when pressing the trigger and I simply...... did not tighten that nut.
Isn't that a great lesson learned? A bit hard way but still.

Attached are repainted gear wheels wells and nose gear well as I used WRONG paint, I used Ocean Grey and it supposed to be bluish grey.

 

[rtfoe]

Today, I also played with airbrush.
I prepared everything, ready to start.
I pressed the trigger on airbrush, NOTHING!
I am thinking, OK paint is too thick, I diluted, pressed the trigger...NOTHING, not even a drop, just air coming out.
I diluted even more, it did not look right, it was looking almost like water, tried again... NOTHING!

At this point I started thinking, what is happening, it cannot dry THAT fast.
I looked at the front and pulled the trigger (at the angle so I do not spray in my face in case it starts working.
I looked closely and what did I see?
Needle is NOT moving. BINGO.
When I was cleaning the needle last time, there is a little nut that needs to be tighten so the needle can be moved back when pressing the trigger and I simply...... did not tighten that nut.
Isn't that a great lesson learned? A bit hard way but still.

Attached are repainted gear wheels wells and nose gear well as I used WRONG paint, I used Ocean Grey and it supposed to be bluish grey.

One good lesson I learned is to add a small drop of thinner into the paint cup fir a dry run. This loosens any tiny left over dried paint residue and to see if the flow is good.
Good start on your 3D wire frame. Yes the fracture on the canopy will not be a problem as you only need shape and dimensions in your actual work. And if you're not a revit counter then leaving the fracture as a new canopy is impossible to obtain is okay. Try dipping the canopy in Future Varnish...it might seep into the fracture and lessen the outcome. It's worth trying.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Jakko]

did not tighten that nut.

That sort of thing happens to everyone at some point Some months ago, I had a very hard time getting my airbrush to spray, and after a lot of fiddling about in much the same way as you, I eventually discovered that I had been turning the knob on this thing:



the wrong way … This is a quick-release coupling on the end of the air line, so the airbrush plugs into it, but unlike most it has an airflow regulator in it, and I had been turning that further closed every time when I was trying to get more air

 

[arb65912]

One good lesson I learned is to add a small drop of thinner into the paint cup fir a dry run. This loosens any tiny left over dried paint residue and to see if the flow is good.
Good start on your 3D wire frame. Yes the fracture on the canopy will not be a problem as you only need shape and dimensions in your actual work. And if you're not a revit counter then leaving the fracture as a new canopy is impossible to obtain is okay. Try dipping the canopy in Future Varnish...it might seep into the fracture and lessen the outcome. It's worth trying.

Cheers,
Richard

Thanks for the tip, Richard.

In my case, the airbrush was perfectly clean as I took it apart in including spraying nozzle and needle so there was nothing there, but I like the idea, will be doing it.

That 3D airframe is NOT what you will see in simulator, it is only for the software to calculate all parameters for the Flight Model, what you will see will be made in Blender. I will post as I go.

It seems that Future Varnish is not available in US, do you know any alternative I could/should try?

 

[Tim Marlow]

Try Johnson’s Klear, it is the same stuff.

 

[arb65912]

That sort of thing happens to everyone at some point Some months ago, I had a very hard time getting my airbrush to spray, and after a lot of fiddling about in much the same way as you, I eventually discovered that I had been turning the knob on this thing:

View attachment 453523

the wrong way … This is a quick-release coupling on the end of the air line, so the airbrush plugs into it, but unlike most it has an airflow regulator in it, and I had been turning that further closed every time when I was trying to get more air

I have the same airflow regulator, but mine at least shows the arrow with increasing thickness indicating more flow.
Probably a nice thing but I haven't tried it yet, the negative thing is that I will not know what my pressure is anymore.
Right now, I set that airflow regulator to max and just watch my pressure in compressor gauge, but I will definitely give it a try next time.

 

[arb65912]

Do I thin Vallejo Model Air acrylic paint for airbrushing?
The video from Vallejo says, they are ready for using from the bottle but if I want I can add Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.
If I add, how much?

 

[arb65912]

Try Johnson’s Klear, it is the same stuff.

Jim, I have tried and no luck, could you post a link, please?
All I get is Johnson's baby stuff.

 

[Tim Marlow]

It’s this stuff Andrzej…

KLEAR-ING THINGS UP

Tips on finding the elusive Johnsons Klear floor polish Johnsons Klear acrylic floor polish has been popular with model makers of al...

georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.com

Basically a floor wax….

 

[stillp]

One good lesson I learned is to add a small drop of thinner into the paint cup fir a dry run. This loosens any tiny left over dried paint residue and to see if the flow is good.

When I've cleaned my airbrush I put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol in the cup and press the trigger to check that there is no bubbling, I then leave the alcohol in the airbrush until it's next needed, when a quick blow-through will blast any remnants of paint out.
Pete

 

[arb65912]

When I've cleaned my airbrush I put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol in the cup and press the trigger to check that there is no bubbling, I then leave the alcohol in the airbrush until it's next needed, when a quick blow-through will blast any remnants of paint out.
Pete

That's a great advice, Pete. Thanks!!!!!

@stillp But if I leave it for a few days it will be OK?

 

[stillp]

Yes, put the cover on the cup and it should last for a week or more.
Pete