1 350 HMS Daring, float or sink lol

BattleshipBob

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You'll get loads of contradictory answers Bob!

I can only type what I've found to be the case.

I only brush paint and Tamiya is awful to brush on.

Whereas, Vallejo 'Air' brushes on like a dream. Same goes for Vallejo 'Colour' but that is slightly thicker than 'Air'.

To be honest, I wouldn't beat yer sel' up about exact colour/shade matches.

There again, I'm a fully paid up member of 'The Near Enough' Club.... :upside:
Afternoon Ron

Thought so, with the items being small on the deck i think i should be able to get away with it !!

Can’t you spray all of the grey, then paint the other bits with Vallejo or such?
Hi Tim, will have to see what i have. Sadly most of paints are for StuG"s lol
 
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stillp

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Hiding in the shade, due to ME no energy or bugger all else, but

The kits hull as a line all the way around and its not the boot topping
View attachment 426097
The box art does not show it but the plans do. Some models have it others do not?

Found some close up pictures of the ships and cannot see one, apart from a picture of HMS Duncan's stern and it looks like a line but only on the stern and a bit on the hull??
It looks like the upper edge of the boot topping to me Bob.
Pete
 

boatman

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BattleshipBob

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Too late its gone lol

This is the Trumpy paint chart, you can see the line above the boot topping, my brain hurts lol
20210614_122315.jpg

So removed the line right or wrong, sanded and added bulbous bow thingy
20210614_122359.jpg

Will finish hull then prime to see if its ok

Been trying the fit of superstructure some tidying to do
20210614_122352.jpg
 

spanner570

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Bob, let your brain hurt no more.
Chris is spot on. The line is simply a demarcation between the black and grey.

Horatio Nelson (Dec.)
 

BattleshipBob

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Afternoon:upside:

Right, added bilge keels (right name??) and 2 stabliser fins? Used Mr Surfacer 500 as filler on the backs of the bilge keels for the first time, using cotton buds soaked in thinner to remove, will deffo use again, worked well.

Also prop shafts and support brackets, will leave off props and rudders incase i knock the buggers off!
20210615_120349.jpg
20210615_120351.jpg
Next started on PE, simple doors and grills, but made a right mess of a small grill, mangled it when cutting off the fret, so tried using tamiya masking tape to stick the fret/parts onto first, so when I cut the parts off it held the part steady so saving damage! You can see the ruined grill top right 3 pic, and the much better ones, phew learned something new, for once lol
20210615_120303.jpg
20210615_122819.jpg
Also fitted the copter hanger. One big problem, my workstation which is great for armour models only just fits Daring, so need to sort something out!!!

Next up more PE then the deck

A ??? Should i fit all the deck bits, bollards, reels etc, etc then paint the deck followed by brush painting the bits or paint the deck first then add the bits pre painted first??

Ta bob
 

spanner570

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Nice progress Bob.
Because I brush paint, I would usually paint the deck first. This allows for a nice 'sweep' of the brush, without the danger of paint gathering around the bits. Then add the bits, which I paint on the sprues.
...again, you will probably get different answers to your question.

Your friend,
Popeye
 

BattleshipBob

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Nice progress Bob.
Because I brush paint, I would usually paint the deck first. This allows for a nice 'sweep' of the brush, without the danger of paint gathering around the bits. Then add the bits, which I paint on the sprues.
...again, you will probably get different answers to your question.

Your friend,
Popeye
Many thanks mr eye, do you have chips with your spinich or as nature intended?

Very rear admiral
Bilge (first class only) Rtd
YES Bob mate 570 is spot on follow what he says an you wont go far wrong an yes you are right they are bildgle keels an stabilizes boyo :thumb2:
ole boaty mate chris
Thanks mr boaty

Getting there with floaty tech :thumb2:
 
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