boatman's 1/72 HMS Tiger C20 build

boatman

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You are keeping your postie fit Chris. Big haul of goodies !!
YEA Bob he will be fit for a marathon haha yes im gettin all the goodies while i can as i know i will need these but what elese i'll need will only be apperant when i need it an thank for lookin in boyo
chris
 

Tim Marlow

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Mate, that’s a lot of railings.....do you have the uprights as well? Great planning in this though.
 

boatman

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Mate, that’s a lot of railings.....do you have the uprights as well? Great planning in this though.
HI TIM yea i have the stanchions or uprights as you call them all 400 of them in brass they are fairly easy to bend as brass is a soft metal but once the uprights are fitted into the deck an the railings wires fitted through them an soldered they should be fairly strong
cheers for your qeustion Tim as its nice to see some are intrested in the build an below all 400 of them an they have predrilled holes for the railings to go through them
chrisIMG_5416.JPG
 

Tim Marlow

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That’s pretty cool as well Chris. A whole lot of soldering there.....I haven’t done any real soldering for many years....not volunteering to do this lot for you though LOL.....
 

JR

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I can quite understand the need for the fans, other than the steam machine ,cooling the electrical motors in the hull .
Trust your soldering is up to scratch Chris! Certainly will be by the time those railings all all done .:thumb2:
 

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Yeah Chris......ain't you lucky the stanchions came pre-drilled! Soldering should go pretty easy though, as it is thin material and will heat up quickly. Will you be needing to use a heat sink to keep from damaging the decking?
Rick H.
 

boatman

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That’s pretty cool as well Chris. A whole lot of soldering there.....I haven’t done any real soldering for many years....not volunteering to do this lot for you though LOL.....
HI Tim :thinking: chicken lol:rolling::smiling5: but i cant say i blame you as i think i may want my head exsamined takin all this on but the real ship has got them on so must this model also
cheers for lookin in
chris
 

boatman

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I can quite understand the need for the fans, other than the steam machine ,cooling the electrical motors in the hull .
Trust your soldering is up to scratch Chris! Certainly will be by the time those railings all all done .:thumb2:
AN hello John yea these fans are gonna be needed though but its workin it all out to get it right to get the cooling effect that needed so a bit of thought will be needed there an:thinking: regards railing yea i should be good at solderind by the time ive done these lot if im still sane lol:rolling:;):smiling::smiling::smiling::smiling: but i may super glue them yet as i did it this way on my other ships like my type 42 HMS EDINBURGH an after nr 20 yrs or so they are still ok as my mate still has her an i was lookin at this ship round his not so long ago an they still ok so i may try a bit of each on this subject to see which is eayiest an thanks to you allso for havin a look in
all best to you
chris
 
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adt70hk

I know its a bit sad but I like quickbuild kits!!!
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This week look amazing once done Chris.

ATB

Andrew
 

boatman

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Yeah Chris......ain't you lucky the stanchions came pre-drilled! Soldering should go pretty easy though, as it is thin material and will heat up quickly. Will you be needing to use a heat sink to keep from damaging the decking?
Rick H.
AN HI THERE Rick yea im lucky ok but with regards to these upright stanchions :thinking: (im dreading it) as ive treid to push a bit of the brass wire through these upright stanchions holes an some holes are ok but others are a bit to tight a fit so i think i will have to tape these uprights down an gently with a half a mm drill bit drill them out but with a bit or a lot of patience takeing my time an they will come ok as i said at the start of this build its gonna be yrs to build this model but some devoted guys spend half their lives on one model so i suppoce im the same a ship nut lol :rolling: :smiling2: an:thinking: regards a heat sink to stop deck damage well if i do solder them i think ive got a tiny metal crockidle clip to just clip it in place on the bottom of the stanchion upright an hopefully that should do the job ok but if i just super glue them in place then there is no need to worry about a heat sink is there but i will try it both ways to see which works the best an also to you Rick thanks for lookin in as its all you guys that give me the mojo to keep goin on this build thanks to you all
chris
 

boatman

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This week look amazing once done Chris.

ATB

Andrew
AN HI Andrew do you mean this will look amazing once done Chris. ? an yes i hope it will just got to hope it all works out ok as this is the most complex ship ive ever done an makes my NIMITZ build seem easy an i nearly went off my head on that after 7 yrs of it lol:rolling: an cheers for stoppin
chris
 

Tim Marlow

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Hi Chris. Look at purchasing a five sided broach to widen the holes in the stanchions. It is less aggressive and more controllable than a drill. Broaches also keep the hole central, drills can allow them to wander.
Also, if you do solder them, put a piece of wet tissue under the crocodile clip you are using as a heat sink. It will make the heat sink much more effective.....
 

boatman

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Hi Chris. Look at purchasing a five sided broach to widen the holes in the stanchions. It is less aggressive and more controllable than a drill. Broaches also keep the hole central, drills can allow them to wander.
Also, if you do solder them, put a piece of wet tissue under the crocodile clip you are using as a heat sink. It will make the heat sink much more effective.....
HI Tim sorry i hav'nt answered but when you posted this my pc was u/s an i dint know your post was on here well firstly what's a 5 sided broach ? as ive no idea an many thanks for the wet tissuse idea
chris
 

Tim Marlow

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Hi Chris. No probs mate. I mean something like this...
They are gently tapered and used by inserting them in the hole and rotating them between the thumb and forefinger. They work really well on brass and plastic sheet and are much more robust than fine drills.
 

Tim Marlow

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Just had a quick look. John has the same set in the shop, but his are a couple of quid cheaper......my bad for not looking there first....
 

boatman

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Hi Chris. No probs mate. I mean something like this...
They are gently tapered and used by inserting them in the hole and rotating them between the thumb and forefinger. They work really well on brass and plastic sheet and are much more robust than fine drills.
HI Tim thanks for showing me these broachs as ive never heard of these before but to me they seem like a set of needle files ive got but i'll see how i go on these stanchions as i will be doin them soon cheers
all best
chris
 

Tim Marlow

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They are nothing like needle files Chris. They are basically tapered round in section and smooth apart from the five cutting edges. They do not have teeth. I’ll try to take some decent pictures of mine later so you can see what I mean.
 

boatman

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They are nothing like needle files Chris. They are basically tapered round in section and smooth apart from the five cutting edges. They do not have teeth. I’ll try to take some decent pictures of mine later so you can see what I mean.
OK cheers Tim
chris
 

Tim Marlow

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Hi Chris. As I promised, here are some shots of my 5 sided broaches....

8B704CC3-C962-4676-8226-124109457A41.jpeg

These are the ones I have, from really small (0.4 ish) to larger. As you can see, they are nothing like files. You can hold them in a pin Chuck, or between your fingers.

F085AC8E-5E4C-4B7E-9E2F-BC213346CEF7.jpeg
Here is a (hopefully) clearer shot of the biggest one. It shows that they are tapered with five equal flat sides. There are no teeth, the edges do the cutting. This enables you to gently increase the size of a hole, and the odd number of sides means it won’t drift off centre. Broaches are particularly useful if you want to make a hole big enough to take a wire of unknown size. You just drill smaller than the wire and broach the hole out to the size you want. For sheet work it can save you a lot on drills because these are more robust and you don’t need to keep every single size in stock. These are obviously no good for blind or deep holes though.

I find them an invaluable tool to have when dealing with etch, especially when building something with a lot of holes that need opening up. Well designed etch should always have undersized holes, because you can always open the holes to size, but if the sheet is over etched you can’t put anything back.....

Hope this helps
 
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