Los's 1/35 Trumpeter Sd.Kfz 7 KM m11

Panzerwrecker

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Before I add all the smaller and fragile items and get the sub-assemblies ready for paint here are my thoughts on this kit.

I have made a few variants of Trumpeters Sd.Kf.7 mainly because I really like the vehicle itself. They were an imposing looking halftrack and looked fascinatedly old fashioned towards the latter stages of the war. No amount of extra tin was going to disguise their crew protection inadequacies and insufficient off-road abilities. Mobile Flak guns based on tank chassis were already on the drawing board. TBH the painting and weathering is much more enjoyable than the construction phase on any of these halftracks for me, but they don’t build themselves

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AFAIK Tamiya, Dragon, and Trumpeter are the only 1/35 manufacturers of this 8T halftrack in plastic, and the ‘late production’ cargo variant has been released only by the latter two manufacturers.

It is the second in a series of variants released by Trumpeter since 2008. The Flak 41 variant in 2021 being the ninth incarnation. Whilst it’s not up to modern standards it is in no way a terrible kit. It is however frustrating to build in places and this is purely down to some odd engineering and the parts count on small details. I don’t believe any of the main mouldings have ever been updated. These types of vehicles are also difficult to handle and work out how best to paint.

There is very little flash present but too many important connecting parts do suffer from some quite bad mould offset. In general, if attachment points are cleaned almost everything fits without too much fuss or any serious alterations. The scale appearance of some of the metalwork parts are a bit ‘chunky’ and the wood grain on the cargo bed is far too exaggerated but overall, it is acceptable. The Dragon kit exceeds in both these areas.

Unfortunately, unlike the Dragon slide moulded one piece chassis they have gone with a multipiece affair, and this can complicate matters. Any slight deviation in lining up parts in the early build stages will almost certainly have consequences for further part fitment and this ultimately, can too easily spoil a build. There are also way too many small fragile items added far too early in the build steps! The cab operating levers being a prime example. They simply will not survive the handling of subsequent building steps. Another issue that I find frustrating is the way they have engineered the metalwork parts so that lining it all tightly becomes a far more difficult task than it needs to be.

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The instruction sequence could have been thought out better in places although they do not suffer from overly complicated steps and the dreaded miss identification of parts.

As for accuracy, there are a few fundamental issues. Taking aside the very slight overall scale length and fender arc inaccuracies, of which most modellers, including myself would not be too concerned with, there are some glaring anomalies and omissions. The sprocket really does need a makeover so sourcing a good replacement is worthwhile. I am hoping a 3D set will be forthcoming very soon

The cab seat layout is from the Flak variant and not the cargo version. Again, a fair bit of work is required to make good. The cargo area adds incorrectly laid out wooden panels and is missing the tall wooden equipment rack. The rear back-to-back bench is missing and instead two separate benches are provided. The spare wheel location shown in the instructions is also incorrect. As for additions or omissions during production these can all be easily addressed. For later built vehicles the inertia starter cover place and profile bulge in the fender and the firm emblems on the radiator housing will need to be removed. Steel pins for the starter and smaller headlights will need to be added.

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What is nice to see is a full canvas tilt for both the cargo and cab areas and a full set of instrument dials. There is quite a large photo-etch count which lifts the overall appearance and none of it is tricky to apply.

It sounds like I’m knocking the kit a fair bit but TBH having built the Dragon equivalent, that has just as many issues. Just some different ones! They include the equipment rack but use the heavier cargo bed framework that the flak variant came with. They have also made the same mistake with the cab seat layout. See Jakko’s post https://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/sd-kfz-7-half-track-post-war.38509/page-6 for more details.

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In summary, to build an accurate version of this last production model without scratch building too many parts, I would suggest a kit bash combination of the two. This should give the best results, but I haven’t seen anybody attempt it yet!
 

Panzerwrecker

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Wheels and tracks

All the wheels have been cleaned up and the tracks built. Wheels look good and thankfully each only have two connection points on the sprue. As for the sprockets, whilst I wait for the possibility of a 3D printed set, I figured I would apply the ‘fix’ and see what I could do with the kit ones anyway. I’ve never bothered sticking all the cut off tabs back in, there never going to fit properly and TBH you can hardly see the difference when built up. There is also the missing detail on the insides anyway. As for the groves on the face, I am applying multiple coats of diluted Tamiya putty with a brush to try and hide them. Three coats in I can still see them, so I still have a way to go!

Step ring and facia plate still to add once the grooves vanish
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As mentioned in the fix, both sprockets need to build up differently. That is, the rollers will sit in a different place against the track pad on each. You will in effect have a left and right sprocket. When you apply the fix and glue the roller ring part back to the main moulding, use a small track run to orientate the track direction and test them on the sprocket to work out the spacing of the rollers to get each link to sit flat on the tyre flats. Once happy each link sits flush, they can be glued in place.

The tracks come in three parts and the link, track plate and pad all need to be cleaned up. I glued all the pads to the plates with the ‘cleaned up’ side in the same direction. That way once you work out your track direction you can glue them all to the links and have all the nice, unmolested sides visible.

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Tracks dry fitted. No track plate or pad clean up scars visable
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One thing I forgot to do was to remove the turn signal detail off the cab side panels. These were never fitted to the new wooden cab so why Trumpeter chose to add them is anyone’s guess. I also added some additional detail to the back of the cab’s tilt cover. It was basically flat with no window flap detail on the inner face. I used some VMS paper and paper shaper to create a better appearance.

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Although it wasn’t required on my build, I found that the windscreen frame would not fold down flat on the bonnet. This was due to the connection of photo etch parts that connect the screen to the body. Oddly it would fold backwards into the cab but not forwards! The photo-etch pizza slice shaped parts are orientated in the correct way so not sure why this is.

The bottom of the cargo tilt still needs to look more natural and the small straps along the sides need adding but it’s time to start thinking about a colour scheme. I have never seen a period colour image of one of these late war vehicles. I imagine most would have left the factory in plain Dunkelgelb. There are some period images of this vehicle with the blotch type of camo pattern and then there is the ubiquitous spaghetti type. Not sure either could be labelled schemes though. Although the elaborate large, banded tri-tonal scheme on the restoration vehicles looks way too nice to have been applied in the field it's something I might consider.
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Jim R

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I glued all the pads to the plates with the ‘cleaned up’ side in the same direction. That way once you work out your track direction you can glue them all to the links and have all the nice, unmolested sides visible.
Wish I'd thought of that :rolling:
You've made good progress. All looking very neat and sorted.
Did the tracks need the recommended number of links (54)?
 

Panzerwrecker

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Wish I'd thought of that :rolling:
You've made good progress. All looking very neat and sorted.
Did the tracks need the recommended number of links (54)?
Cheers Jim. The Panzer Tracts book does confirm 54 links per side. My pic above does have 54 and they fit fine. From the majority of period images, on a flat surface, all the top run of links sit on all the wheels bar the front wheel behind the sprocket. As I left the idler wheel and its mounting loose I still have a bit of wiggle room to loosen or stretch the run.
 

Panzerwrecker

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Time for some paint.:smiling4:

Build is 99% complete. The small fragile gear controls will be added during the cab painting and many of the front fender moulding accessories like the Notek light, photo-etch steps, headlights, and width indicators will be added once the two cab sub-assemblies have been attached.

I did state at the beginning that this would be an OOB build but I figured seeing as I still had a spare tilt cover moulding from a previous build, why not try and improve it. The kit’s tilt is a little short and should overlap the sides more. It is also missing some strap detail. Using the PT book images as reference, VMS paper has been cut into the various shapes that make up the tilt canvas and attached over the kit's main moulding with VMS paper shaper liquid.

No tools are present on the bonnet/hood as I will try and immitate the newly built vehicle shown in the Panzer Tracts book. This is shown in fresh Dunkelgelb paint so I will decide whether to add any camo once the base coat is down.

Front wheels are Quick Wheel resin items. Outer roadwheels left unnattached and not present in pics
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A little more prep work is required with vehicles requiring an interior to be painted so my plan is to split the painting steps up, starting off with the cab interior. This will easier whilst both the front sub-assembly (with instrument panel) and the rear cab assembly are still separate.

Once primed and the base coat is down, the instrument dial decals, windscreen glass and steering wheel can all be added. A pin wash and small amount of weathering will follow. Then both sub-assemblies can be attached to receive all the small items like the steps, headlights, width indicators etc.

Then the interior will be masked off and work can start on priming and painting the remaining parts. The chassis will be painted separately as will the fuel tank, the tracks and all the wheels.

The main tilt canvas can also be painted separately as this simply slides into place over the wooden cargo bed sides. I will also paint the unmolested original tilt moulding for a comparison.

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Panzerwrecker

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Panzerwrecker

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I’ve just routed out the equivalent kit released by Dragon. This has been sat in this state since around 2014. I’ve forgotten why it never progressed further but Hey Ho, it’s finally going to receive some love now!

The bonnet/hood was missing the photo-etch tool clasps included in the kit so I've just added some 3D printed ones. The manufacturers emblem remains on the radiator, and I had not added the kits early style large headlamps so I will have to try and find some smaller ones. It's a shame I have already added the early style instrument panel as I have just found a late style one:disappointed2:

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Although not that visible in the photos Dragon used the chassis to cargo bed mouldings from their Flak kits. These were reinforced so not appropriate for this cargo only version. Although their cab seats are split correctly the driver’s seat is not as deep as it should be and the whole bench is too deep. It should not sit as far forward and be parallel with the wooden side panels. Another glaring mistake is they only provide the older style centrally mounted instrument panel.

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Where it does shine compared to the Trumpeter kit, apart from the obvious one-piece chassis moulding is in its overall finesse. The panel thickness is much more to scale all round, the radiator grills are much better moulded, and the detail is overall much sharper. The cargo area is much more accurate with the inclusion of the equipment rack with the rifle racks correctly mounted on it. Unfortunately, although they do include the seat side protection/step on the cargo side panels they have made the same mistake as Trumpeter and included two separate benches on each side. Fortunately I had not added these to the floor.

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Looking at both kits side by side the first things that stands out is the height of the cargo frame. It is much higher on the Dragon kit and more in keeping with what you see in period images. The radiator is much better represented too, as is the front fender detail with the inclusion of the steel pins for the external starter.

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Although I have found the width indicators and some other fragile stuff yet to be added, the side panel latches are not present! I'm normally good with keeping all the unbuilt stuff together so I must have half inched it for another build. The cab will also be a challenge to paint due to the limited access. I was also confident I had left the front fender assembly loose too, but it is most definitely well attached to the chassis :tired:

One last thing that both kits seem to suffer from is the close proximity of the tracks around the sprocket to the bodywork. Period images show a much larger gap here. As the sprockets are fixed to the chassis both companies seem to have messed up measurements somewhere in this area!

Time to mix up some paint:tongue-out3:
 
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Panzerwrecker

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A beautiful pair.
I much prefer the look of the Dragon kit now they are back to back. Inaccuracies aside it just looks so much sharper.:cool:

I'm defo going to have a go at a kitbash of these two in the future if I can find a reasonably priced Dragon kit in the UK
 

grumpa

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This was my first attempt at this kit. It’s a grubby beaten-up over weathered mess now but well worth keeping on so I don't mess up new builds with techniques I haven’t yet tried and tested. The tracks don't fit on the sprockets at all well as I didn’t know about the 'offset' fix and as I glued my idler stub axles to the frame the tracks were saggy on one side and 'tight as' on the other. The radiator housing also impedes the engine fan if fixed a gnat’s chuff too rearward and the front engine mounts also need to be fixed perpendicular to the frame as that can also cause fit issues of the engine inside the bay. All little things that can frustrate a build.

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This kit has now become a painting 'Guinea pig' and road surface track template. The paint looks way better than it did originally as all sorts of new techniques have been tried on it. My build mistakes ref the engine had it removed completely, and the cargo bed is also removable so I can mess about with paint effect over wood.

So don't throw away those kits you were never 100% happy with................
Personally, I think it looks awesome as is., it would look great in a dio as a derelict.
Jim.
 

Panzerwrecker

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Personally, I think it looks awesome as is., it would look great in a dio as a derelict.
Jim.
Cheers Jim. It was for a while, but I keep digging it out anytime I get a new weathering product:tongue-out3:
 

Panzerwrecker

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Would love to post up some pics of paint progress but currently dying of the man flu I picked up at SMW. TBH, I figured there was a good chance of going a second round with the covid’s, so could have been worse I suppose! The 8Ton is now sat in some primer awaiting work on the cab interior.

I’ve been annoying the pants of my other half since I got back, whilst moping around declaring every half hour that 'I’m dying' so to give her a break I stated looking at images of captured vehicles. I quite fancy giving this build a coat of OD, at least at the front end, with some hand painted stars just to spruce things up a bit. I haven’t found any re-commissioned 8Ton images but there are plenty of other nice ones on the tinterweb to give me some ideas.
 

Ian M

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Man flu socks. Worse than the plague, covid and whooping cough in one.

Seriously considering buying one of these..
 
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