Hi Rick. Thanks for the idea. If it works in your scale it should work in this one.....
Hi David. Paint will be along shortly, just have to sort out this tarpaulin issue first......glad you like it by the way....
Hi Jim. I think milliput would be a little thick at this scale. I do have some green stuff I haven’t yet tried, so might see how that goes. Thanks for the idea.
That was an MG 15
Very easy to confuse, though, if you can only really see the barrels and drum magazine.I suspect that won’t have been a great problem at its top speed of all of 30 km/h
Golf tees! Like it!
Can’t remember where I stole that Andrew, but it wasn’t an original thought LOL. Works great for plastics and metals up to 28mm though.
Certainly does John. When I paint smaller figures I just mount them five at a time on the lolly sticks.....these are as small as I go for individual mounting.
Thanks Peter, I’ll probably do the figures first. Quick and dirty faces on these....
They seem to have stuck those guns on almost anything....though I think that one would struggle to be depressed enough to hit it target. On the other hand, look at all that space for ammo.....
Thanks Lee, glad you like it. I hope you’re feeling a lot better now......
I prefer cellulose (lacquer) based primers as I feel they adhere best, so also have Tamiya and Mr Color in stock.
Thanks Tim. Well be looking forward to watching these come together so I can improve my figures.OK, quiet at the back there, we are going to start on the, figures....
The figures have been cleaned, assembled, and primed.
View attachment 407185
Cleaning and assembly is done exactly the same as any other plastic kit. I use a 15a scalpel blade to scrape down seam lines and blemishes and finish off with fine wet and dry (400 down to 3600 grit, used wet). Assembly used Contacta or EVA liquid cement.
I always prime figures, especially these, as they will be handled in games. Priming has several advantages to me. It binds well to the figure, making the paint job more robust. It provides a good key for the top coat, and it gives an even colour for the painter to work over. I picked grey for these because WW2 colours are muted and if the paint is slightly translucent, a slight greying out of the top coat can enhance the paint job. Sometimes, for bright coloured figures, I might use white primer. However, I very rarely use black as a primer, because I find it hard to get a decent top coat colour density over it. Some painters swear by it, but I’ve only ever sworn at it.
In this case, the primer was Alclad 2 grey primer and microfiller. No real reason for this choice except I have a bottle that has been hanging around for several years
View attachment 407186
The next stage for me is a black wash to highlight detail on the figure. This is liberally applied with a number 4 round brush. The function of the wash is very similar to a pin wash on armour. It highlights detail and show the discrete
areas of the figure. In my case it also makes the figure much easier to read when I’m painting. Even at this point the figure will start to come alive.
The wash is made from a 50:50 mix of these two...
View attachment 407198
The game colour wash is designed just for this sort of use, but the black has a strong pigmentation. The glaze medium therefore “thins” the wash without taking away its useful characteristics. As I understand it, glaze medium is basically colour wash without pigment. You can dilute the wash with water, but if you do you may break down the consistency of the wash, and increase its surface tension. It will not then flow like it should, and could dry blotchy.
This part is just a quick insight into my figure painting preparation. There are as many ways to do this as there are painters, but this one is timeworn and works for me. I have been doing this, or something similar, for about thirty years.
I know some of you want to see how I do faces....well, that should be tomorrow and over the weekend....
Hope it helps, and if you have any questions, just ask away....
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