DeAgostini's Nitro Racer

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Phoenix

Guest
Sound advice,always run glo engines outside,the fumes are deadly,also wash your hands well otherwise you will have skin problems later on in life just like I have through prolonged exposure.Nitromethane is a poison remember and it sinks into the skin,use a barrier cream before using glow fuel.

Better safe than sorry,safety first lads.
it also doesnt taste the greatest either
 
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puregooner

Guest
ok..right finally got my engine running boy what a relief...but and a big but it only runs with the glow plug starter in, i take it out and the engine stops dead...any ideas or know what is wrong?

:emo10:
 
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Phoenix

Guest
possibly cos its a new engine and its still in the runnign in process

heat the engine block up with a heat gun a little and try from there
 
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Bluewavestudios

Guest
Hi, Hope I can help here,

On that Engine try 2 & 1/2 turns on the needle valve for your fuel setting, The Skyline runs fine on this as an initial starting setting on it's GX12 engine although it can now happily run on 2 turns (having now been run in) Most of the time we stick to the 2 & 1/2 settings juts for reliabilty and easy starts.

Make sure you have the right grade plug for your engine and the fuel you are using and most of all, make sure you have a copper washer under the plug to ensure a perfect air seal on the engine....don't overtighten it as they are soft washers.

and the minimum nitro content for that engine is 16%...the Skyline I built uses the same engine and runs fine on that...even my nephews old scooby which ran on 10% runs better on 16%

Regards....Mark
 
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Seaspray

Guest
Change the plug try another brand I use the plug with the bar across the bottom which help on smooth idleing keep a handful of those copper washers and change them every so often you remove the plug.Just nip tight the plug. Check your glow plug starter often as it eats up the juice. Once the engine starts to run in you will hear it start to get a little faster.We call that trying to 2 stroke ease back on the fuel to make leaner a little at a time .The more careful your with the engine the longer it will last.Might try a bigger battery in your starter not voltage ways but mahs.I got marine engines 20 years old which have run up and down the lochs in their days. Let the engine heat up on its own from the inside out as its intended to do.

Good Luck..Happy Motoring
 
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Phoenix

Guest
ht eonly times you should remove the plug is if you flood the engine or it dies

removing it and putting it back in will give you a crap seal cos when its tighted from new it squishes the washer to make a seal

and heating the block up only losens the piston and liner when they are new beacuse it is still tight

also for the car engines if you can try not to use model technics fuel as its crap

good fuel to go for is tornado but there is a few others like o donnels which is good also
 

wonwinglo

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Barry
Golden rules for glo engines-

1/ Make sure that the plug glows nice and bright with a well charged 2 volt battery.

2/ Make sure that the cylinder head bolts are tight and there are no gasket leaks.

3/ Remove the needle valve and attach a piece of fuel tubing to the jet assembly,blow through to ensure that it is clear,make sure that there is no swarf within the assembly,new engines sometimes have this in them believe me !

4/ Screw in the needle and open up approx 3-4 turns initially,once it starts lean out the mixture by carefully and slowly screwing in the needle.

5/ If you fllod the engine,remove the plug,turn off the fuel by screwing in the needle valve,then turn the motor over,watch you eyes as glow fuel stings.

Then start again.

6/ Modern glow motors appear to be tight to turn over,this is because the bores are tapered ( aluminium/bronze/chrome) some are extra tight and stubborn,best thing to do is remove engine from car,bolt onto your test stand/bench,rig up a fuel tank and run the engine in,sometimes you can even attach a model aircraft propeller by removing the flywheel assembly and run the engine in that way using an electric starter.

7/ If you are using a pressurised fuel tank then make sure there are no leaks anywhere,otherwise the engine will refuse to run properly.

8/ Make sure that you are using new fuel with plenty of aromatics,ie nitromethane that is not stale,look in the bottom of the fuel bottle and see the debris floating there ? castor oil uses the castor bean,most fuel pressings are 2nd 3rd despite what the fuel manufacturers say to the contrary,the best first pressed oils go to other more expensive applications,this oil leaves tiny shreds of debris in the fuel,always filter your fuel before use.

Remember glow engines are normally reliable,but you need to maintain them to preserve that reliability.

Best of luck.
 
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puregooner

Guest
the glow plug is brand new which came with the engine.it has "OS A3" written on it
 
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puregooner

Guest
thanks phoenix i am going to my local model shop on sat and was going to buy some spares anyway..i will get those ones..thanks again
 
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puregooner

Guest
thanks phoenix i am going to my local model shop on sat and was going to buy some spares anyway..i will get those ones..thanks again....oooops double click!!!
 

wonwinglo

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***Yes,thats OS No.3,a very popular plug,add this to the above list,sometimes plugs get damaged and the elements squash due to excess fuel in the head,although they still glo they are only working to half capacity,also remember that the life of a glo-plug is between 3-4 hours running time if you are lucky,hot jolts can finish them off in seconds,after this the plugs can break down badly and cause starting problems due to corrosion on the element wire etc,treat them as expensive consumables,some people hang onto glo plugs like a miser ! so just because the plug is new it may still be faulty,always carry a few spares anyway,try another plug.

Also during the run in period,plugs are working extra hard and sometimes blow just like a lightbulb does,ping.

Having said that the manufacturers could easily make a strong sturdy plug that would last for years,but that would be bad for business.

As you can guess my business once revolved around glow engines with the flying school etc and quite often we used to burn a gallon of fuel a day on operations,you get to know the ins and outs pretty quickly when you have a pupil waiting to fly,and the engine will not start ?

the glow plug is brand new which came with the engine.it has "OS A3" written on it
 
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puregooner

Guest
ht eonly times you should remove the plug is if you flood the engine or it dies removing it and putting it back in will give you a crap seal cos when its tighted from new it squishes the washer to make a seal

and heating the block up only losens the piston and liner when they are new beacuse it is still tight

also for the car engines if you can try not to use model technics fuel as its crap

good fuel to go for is tornado but there is a few others like o donnels which is good also
my local model shop actually sell tornado fuel aswell so will purchase some of that instead then..thanks
 
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Seaspray

Guest
Keep some spare your localy model shop if there into cars will know the correct one to buy.
 
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Phoenix

Guest
for a .12 engine you want to use a medium/hot or a hot plug

ie the a3 or os8
 
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puregooner

Guest
thanks all again for your advice and tips...I upgraded my glow plugs to hot F7,s and my fuel to 16% and the car is running great now...i have been to the school carpark next door and have been coasting it round there,but after a few figure of eights and a bit of four wheel drifting one of the front wheels came away.I have noticed that the drive shaft has come away from the wheel shaft and has caused the screw in the front hub to break through...not happy with that so deagostini will be getting a phone call on monday,and i will see if they will replace those parts.
 
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Phoenix

Guest
do you mean the axel has burst through the hub/knuckle ?

get some piccies up of it
 
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